Heliotrope Ridge the Second Time Around

 

Heliotrope Ridge is hike #1 in "100 Classic Hikes in Washington." I've had that book for a dozen years at least. When I first started backpacking, it was pretty much my go to for planning. I would joke it was my "Sears catalog for hiking" (you have to be pretty old to appreciate that reference) because I spent so much time looking through it - circling, underlining and dreaming. 

So of course I day hiked it years ago, but I never wrote about it back then because I knew I had to go back. The glacier overlook was great and all...but what about this mysterious "climbers route" veering off from the main trail? I'm no climber; but I am curious. And if the trail is going up, I know that's where it gets good. 

Good, and hard. Which is why it's taken me so long to go back. And also because the road has been washed out for years. But once I saw the road was back in commission, I knew it was time.

Even with so many years and miles of experience under my belt, I still felt a little intimidated by this adventure. Thankfully the first couple miles are very straight forward and well trodden, so the only thing to worry about there is over crowding.  So even though this trail is known for it's stream crossings, which can be pretty intense early season, you can always count on having company.

It's just past the 2 mile mark and the sign saying "climbers trail" where things change. I always feel a little out of my element when I'm on another sport enthusiast's turf. But I saw not another soul that day once I made the turn.

It's really not that far to get to the first climbers camp - maybe a mile at most. But I'm glad I waited until late season when my legs are feeling strong, because it really is a push. And just before you get to Hogsback, the trail pretty much disappears. I think there has been a washout of sorts there, because it's very hard to see. I made my way around the side, while my AllTrails kept telling me I was a dufus. 

Once I crested the top, I saw my first tent area and knew I had made it. Looking up even further I saw a tent, and was glad I wasn't alone. There really wasn't a trail, so I wandered around looking for a bigger site that would fit my Durston tent.

This is where I made a really stupid, mindless mistake. I went to cross a very small stream, and stepped right on the wet, flat rock bottom. It was a miracle I didn't go down hard. (Thank you trekking poles!) I'm getting to an age where falling like that is a real worry; I get wrecked just using my gardening pruner too aggressively! (Literally...like a few days before. My shoulder would not have survived a forceful impact. I shudder thinking about it.)

Anyway, I found a great spot and enjoyed my first night solo in almost a year. For those of you who have tried a solo backpack and feel like something is wrong with you because you were terrified and couldn't sleep, let me assure you that you are 100% normal. It took me SO LONG to be comfortable with it; but I honestly love it so much now and totally think it was worth all the suffering. 

In the morning I left my tent and went wandering upwards to see how far I could get. Once I got to the upper level, I saw that the one tent I could see was actually part of a large group, and I was really grateful they were all gone and most likely half way up to the summit already so I didn't have to feel like the outsider roaming through their camp. 

With thoughts of my near fall the day before on my mind, I turned around when the trail got to steep and scrambley. Best not to push my luck, as I climber I am not. I felt like I was going extra, extra slow on the way down, but surprisingly I was back at my car in just two hours. Another hour of driving (count on that forest road taking a full half hour at least - it's a doozy!) and I was at the North Fork Brewery at exactly noon as they opened their doors. Happy "worth coming back to" trails!