Ancient Lakes Expectations

To be honest, my expectations were quite low. "Ancient" in my mind equals worn out, decrepit, run-down...plus I knew these lakes were pretty much poisoned by agricultural run off. Basically I was imagining a big expanse of desert area with several large mud puddles. 

Julie and her new stuffie, "Basil"

But spring backpacking beggars can't be choosers - the list is short in Washington for getting out there in April. So when my buddies invited me to come along to Eastern Washington for our first backpack of the year, I was coming - low expectations and all. And the truth is, we really only need each other to have a good time. 

Knowing that we only needed to hike in a couple miles, we packed luxuries like chairs and a ukulele; plus lots of water since you can't even filter from those nasty lakes. Pulling into the packed parking lot, we knew we would have lots of company. It was a beautiful weekend, and we certainly aren't the only hiking beggars in this state who were desperate for their tent time fix. 

Right away I was taken in by the beauty. How could I have forgotten that an "expansive desert" has it's own appeal and a very unique charm. As we approached the first lake (which as you can see was gorgeous and nothing like a mud puddle) we started seeing the large groupings of campers - here, there, and everywhere!

But the cool thing was, because of this expansiveness, you could put your tent up pretty much anywhere you wanted. It reminded me a little of going to Shi Shi Beach. VERY different aesthetics of course, but the same sort of communal feel. 

They are a couple now, BTW. Expect babies soon! ;)

So even though we were there with probably over a hundred other people, we felt very snug and private on our little hilltop spot. Well, private until you had to pee; and snug until the wind picked up during the night. Although more lovely than I expected, the Ancient Lakes area does have it's downfalls. 

Sammy wanted a new ride ;)

And though my low expectations also included "too easy and no challenge," the extra miles we did up to the waterfall and then the next day around a loop that went up to the ridge line were anything but! Just difficult enough to feel a little thrilling (but not at all for kids, IMO) this trip was the perfect appetizer for what I hope is a hiking season with lots of miles that exceed all expectations. 

PS: We stopped at "Sage Hills" on our way home, and I have to say that hike really was a disappointment. It's good for the quick IG pic, but what you don't see is the power lines/adjacent neighborhood complete with incessantly barking dog/bikers whizzing by...we turned around after less than a half mile. If you have extra time, I think it would be better spent exploring the Wenatchee riverfront area. We ate a few blocks above it, at the McGlinn's Public House's adorable outdoor seating area, which I highly recommend. (Just not the crab cakes. Save your seafood orders for Western Washington!) 

It's pretty as long as you don't look behind you ;)

Lanham Lake Snowshoe

I suppose it's time to buy snowshoes...again. The used ones I bought a couple years ago weren't the best, and have recently broken beyond repair. Julie can't always loan me her extra set, though that plan has been working thus far!

Thanks, Julie!!

Anyway, we both confessed we were really struggling to be motivated to do another snowshoe, but we didn't want to disappoint Heidi. Snowshoeing is beautiful and all, but it is a different animal than hiking - a much more difficult animal. Three to four miles is pretty much max, and it's hard to want to drive up to the mountains if you are only going to do a handful of miles. 

But a search on WTA revealed a snowshoe I had never heard of that wasn't too bad of a drive. Just a few miles past Steven's Pass and you'll find the Nordic Center; a place none of us had ever been to. What a great place with a huge lot; though you will need your Northwest Forest Pass to park there. The building has bathrooms you can use, and you could even rent snowshoes if you don't have a friend like Julie. 

The man at the desk was very friendly and let us know exactly where the Lanham Creek Trail was (just look for the blue sign!) but that it was not an official part of the maintained trails system there. (Which you would need a special pass for - looks like a great place for cross country skiing if you're into that!) 

Good job, Sammy!

When it was all said and done, we were proud we had pushed ourselves, and really glad we hadn't picked anything over four miles. A stop at the newly renovated Bush House in Index was the perfect reward for our efforts. Happy "having fun until the snow melts" trails! (A few more "things to know" are below for those interested.) 

Really good food!

Things to know list:

1) According to AllTrails, Lanham Lake Trail is 3.3 miles with 1,177 ft elevation gain and takes an average time of 2 hours...best to expect to double that with snowshoes on.

2) This is not a heavily used trail, which means it may be hard to follow. There are ribbons on trees to help until you intersect with a service road.

3) Turn right on the road and follow up until you intersect with a groomed trail. Yes, I know you're not supposed to use these, but you'll need to for just about 600 feet. Then you'll veer off to the left; it's not terribly obvious, but you'll see this sign once you go in. 

You're on the right track!

Don't keep going on the groomed trail

4) You'll have a lovely section that is sort of flat and open, but then you will be heading up steeper and steeper and you might want to turn around if you are anything like us. But keep going; the lake is worth it. 

Easy

Not easy

5) Just because you see that others have gone out on the lake does not mean it's safe. I'm sure you already know that, but it doesn't hurt to say it again. Falling in the water up there would be a very bad idea.

Worth the push

  

Frozen Fun at Happy Creek

BURRRR! I know Alaskans would scoff at calling 7 degrees "cold," but for this north westerner, it was a record. My friends and I had been considering a snow camp at Artist Point over the long holiday weekend, but Mother Nature put the kibosh on that idea. So Plan B was a simple snowshoe at the road closure on Hwy 20.

I don't know why I have never thought of doing this before...I suppose Hwy 20 disappears off my radar once winter hits. But it's always such a beautiful drive, and there is quite a bit of snowshoeing opportunities in the area that, for whatever reasons, seem to be off most people's radar. We saw almost no cars until we pulled into the Ross Lake Dam parking lot. 

It's worth going for the drive alone 

Then you realize this is snowmobile territory. Like our trip to the Twin Peaks Trail last spring, I suddenly felt as if I was on different sport enthusiast's turf. But it didn't feel crowded at all, and nobody made us feel as if we didn't belong. 

Just a short half mile past the gate closure and you'll come to the Happy Creek Nature Trail. This is a very short and sweet loop (mostly boardwalk) and includes an added extension to Happy Creek Falls if desired. The last quarter mile or so climbs a bit steeply, but it is nicely switch-backed, so if you have decent snowshoes, it's not too bad. 

After getting to the "falls," Heidi and I both confessed we had some grandiose fantasies of taking pics beneath a majestic frozen ice sculpture. All I can say is, lower your expectations if you decide to push to the falls. 

On our way back to the original loop, we instead skipped across over to the road (this trail parallels the hwy much of the time) and headed back to the car that way instead, making a nice 3-ish mile day. (Which will feel like 6 if you are wearing snowshoes!) A perfect way to spend a very chilly day - much better than freezing to death on Mount Baker! Though the snow camp remains on the bucket list! Until then, happy "bring lots of hand warmers" trails. 

Sammy says "Stay toasty, but remain chill" ;)

The things we do for the shot!

Finding Magic on Pine and Cedar Lakes Trail

"It's extra magical today," says the trail runner coming down just as I was heading up. This is one of the only times I was out hiking only because I wanted to get a workout in, so I didn't have magic on my mind. The weather was crappy, therefore I bagged my grand plans of finally crossing Hidden Lake Lookout off the list and "settled" for this hike with the intentions of trying to keep in shape and seeing if I could do it somewhat fast. 

I sort of figured anyone out on this drizzly day probably had the same aim...especially a trail runner. But her positive declaration shifted my mindset. I stopped thinking about speed and how this day was a down grade and instead tried to put my magical glasses on too. And then I saw that she was 100% right. May all your trails be just as enchanting.

"The day I decided that my life was magical, there was suddenly magic all around me." Marabeth Quin

Thank you, Pine...

And Cedar Lakes!

And here's all you need to know about the hike in two pictures. First time I've used an app to track me like this...I swear I was not drunk hiking! Maybe they always turn out looking this crazed? I guess I'll find out next time I try it. 

screen shot of trail before

Post hike screen shot; though ignore that mileage...it's supposed to be only a 5 mile up and back! I guess if you hike like a spaz you add a couple miles? Ha ha, I never trust apps when it comes to mileage.

I Think My Suffering Tank Has a Leak

I know I said in my last post that my suffering tank was full - but it didn't even last a week! My friend, Janet, texted me saying she was going to finish up the section of the Timberline we missed (story ) with our other friend, Dani, who was doing the whole thing. "You won't even need to take Friday off...I know you're tempted," she enticed. 

Though hanging with two of the best people ever would not have been suffering, and it looked to be a perfect weekend; so obviously I was in! Except I couldn't get the Monday off, and so then I was out. WAAAAA!!!

Of course, now that I was all amped to hike, I had to find something else to do. So what did I pick? Just the hardest day hike I could possibly think of. BRING ON THE SUFFERING!

Mailbox Peak is one of those hikes you have to do, even though you don't want to. It's a right of passage if you are a hiker in Washington. I've dreaded it for years, but now was the time. With over 300 miles put in this year, I knew it's probably the best my legs were ever going to be. 

When I was only maybe 500 feet from the summit, a young man coming down looked at me and exclaimed with extreme sincerity, "I am so proud of you!" It took me a little off guard...I mean, what the hell, do I look like a need a walker or something? Ha ha, but he was so genuinely impressed and sweet, I couldn't take offence. And I suppose there wasn't a whole lot of other 50 year olds on the trail that day; so hell yeah, I'm proud of me too. Though I wished I would have replied back, "South Sister was harder."

A few hopefully helpful things below for anyone looking to check Mailbox Peak off their list. Happy "pretty impressive for an old lady" trails. 

THINGS TO KNOW:

1) There are actually two ways to get to the top- the old "legendary" way, and the new and improved way. The old way is a straight up through the woods, no thrills, get er' done push. You will gain 4K elevation in just 2.7 miles, so it's no joke. The newer trail is twice as long, but is really pleasant and doesn't try to kill you. I chose to go up the hard way and go down the "easy" way; which IMO is a pretty solid plan. Together they make a 7.7 day, which took me a good 7 hours - slower than I anticipated, even without a walker. ;)

2) Don't forget to bring something to put in the mailbox, and take something out. That's the best part! I am really hoping someone will take my book and then get back to me about how much they loved it. :)

whoever wrote this - you are amazing

3) October is the time to do this hike! Even though this is a really popular hike, it wasn't crowded at all...probably because everyone is out looking for larches. And though you won't find them here, there is still some really nice fall color. 

4) The lower lot fills up before the upper lot; probably because people assume the upper is already full. Go on to the upper lot - there is a nice turn around if it is full. I found at least half the spots still open at 8 am.

5) Don't get confused by the maps in the lots - both trails start at the same place from the upper lot. The "Mailbox Peak Road" shown is the first part of the trail. Go up the "road", passing the sign for the new trail until you come to the old trail. You can't miss it, unless you go down to the real road thinking that's where the trail starts.(Like the two gals who were starting at the same time as me. I tried to tell them...though they still caught me within an hour.)  

Suffering Tank Gets Filled at Home Lake

Another 6 miles gained on the PNT towards my 500 goal, though I had to hike 24 to earn them. Sometimes I seriously have to ask what the heck is wrong with me. Why do I crave suffering? Though I know I'm not alone. When my friend, Dani, messaged me about this trip I answered, "Such a beautiful weekend! But DAMN it was cold. Tent was totally frozen this morning" to which she responded, "Damn!! I miss the trails!!!" with a sad face...as if freezing your ass off is the best time ever. 

Though, look at these pictures. This kind of scenery pulls us like a magnant. Except, I know it's more than that. The Appalachian Trail lacked views most the time; and even though that made me grumpy, I kept on hiking - loving and hating it all the while. Maybe us hikers have some weird trauma bond with nature?

But I can tell you one thing, there is little else that will get me up at 4 am. Second time in two weeks I was up at that hour to get on trail. Marmot Pass to Home Lake has been on my list for awhile, though I was really hoping to make it a leisurely three day excursion with friends. But this last beautiful weekend just before the season closes sealed the deal - I had to go solo and get er' done in two days. 

So, 436.7 down, 63.3 more to go. I told myself I was going to squeeze in Devil's Dome Loop (or I should say half of it) this coming weekend if the weather was nice (which it will be) but I just don't have it in me. I won't say this last trip broke me...but I will say it filled my "I need suffering" tank - for now. Happy "know when to say when" trails. Trip details below if interested, as always.

Day 1: Caught the first ferry at Edmonds and was hiking by 8:30 am. The forest road here is grade A - I think they must have recently did road work because there was maybe one pot hole.The trail itself is grade A too, though you gain 3K getting up to the pass, so it's a steady grind. (I did the Big Quilcene trail to get to the pass, though I've heard going in by way of the Dungeness is easier.) Then it's down down to Boulder Shelter (no shelter that I could find though) and relatively flat for awhile. But that last mile...ugh. I was STRUGGLING with the incline and had my head phones on because it helps me. I only saw one trail runner after Marmot Pass, and it was getting late, so I gave up on the idea that anyone would come up behind me. So Brad scared the absolute shit out of me. We were the only ones at the lake, so he came over when I was settled to say hi and ask if I would heat his water, being as he doesn't carry a stove. It was so frigid, so I didn't blame him for not wanting to eat his meal cold like he usually did. When he left he warned me he'd be gone before I left because he was getting up real early. I said I was getting up early too, to which he replied, "No, like I'll be out of here before first light"...as if nobody else knows how to get up at that hour. I tried not to gloat when I passed his camp in the morning while he was still packing up...but I might have just a tinge. ;) This day was 11.6 miles total. 

Day 2: Total miles for this day was 12.4. Like I mentioned, I was hiking by 5:30 am. I'm not a headlight hiker, but it needed to be done because I couldn't be this close to Constance Pass and not do the extra half mile to the top. I was wearing EVERYTHING I had, but that wind up top...BURRRR. I could see the outline of ridges, but not much else, though I was certainly not waiting for sunrise. I didn't take off even one layer until 11:00 am, and even with gloves my hands did not warm up until that time. I think I was off trail at 1:45? I BOMBED down that forest road to get to Quilcene because I was STARVING, and even thought I'm trying to be dry this month I could not resist a beer to go with my patty melt and it was so amazing. They even gave me a free sample for Sammy, which is why Quilbilly's is the best.

Always have to take a picture here ;)