An Added Side of Flapjacks

 

(Update from 2026: This trail is closed from a mile in, all the way to Home-Sweet-Home Camp, due to the Bear Gulch fire. NPS staff said it will likely be closed for “at least a few years.” So very sad; I'm thankful I got to experience the trail all the way to Hart Lake years ago. For now, the small loop around Staircase is the only trail option here; but if you wanted to get deeper in, there are several trails that access this area, such as the Duckabush.) 

Who doesn’t like an add on? Even though the “Grand Loop” was a full plate of 13 thousand feet elevation gain in 43 miles, I still felt I needed another helping. I suppose I had “buffet syndrome”– shoving in as much as possible because I already paid for however much I could handle (by means of a $45 pass that includes as many ONP permits as I could obtain.) So, after saying goodbye to my gals in Port Angeles that Friday, I kept heading down the Peninsula toward Staircase Campground for my next mountain meal; another three thousand feet of elevation gained in just 4 of another 15 mile hike — quite a mouth full! Only problem was my permit was for Saturday, so I had to figure out where I’d put my tent up for the night.

Let me remind you, this was a beautiful Friday in August. Anybody who has tried to get a walk up camp spot pretty much anywhere in Washington on a weekend in the summer knows I was REALLY rolling the dice on this one. I knew a spot at Staircase Campground, where I would start my hike, was utterly hopeless; but being there are a handful of campgrounds on the way, I took my chances. Amazingly I found one on my first try at Seal Rock–water view and everything. Don’t try this at home people…it really was nothing short of a miracle. Someone else had it saved for a friend who never showed, and I just happened to arrive exactly when they were ready to let it go. 

SO lucky!

I arrived fairly early the next morning, but yet still found a completely full lot. If you don’t want to park on the side of the road and add another half mile to your trip, best to get there before 8 am. As I hinted at earlier, Staircase is a VERY popular destination within the Olympic National Park.

I really had to question my sanity when I hit the Flapjack Lake’s “time to climb” turn off at 3.7 miles in, and only decided my “extra portion” was worth it when the lakes came into view at the very end. But that last mile…let me tell you, it really had me doubting. This trail gave me more than my fill — of beauty and of pain — both of which I can’t seem to get enough of. Happy “full plate” trails– that hopefully don’t leave you overly stuffed! My “things to know” list below if you are thinking of doing this trail, but no trail log since it was only one night.

1. This is one of the very hard to get permits; especially on a weekend. There is, though, a really nice camp right at the junction a half mile before the lakes (where you could continue on to Black and White Lakes if you wanted) that I think would be awesome and is probably easy to get since it’s not listed. You’d have to ask for it at the Ranger Station, which is actually manned there right in the parking lot, or get the permit over the phone. Not having to haul your pack up that God awful last half mile, and not having having to deal so many bugs (which are horrid at the lakes) are a couple good reasons to consider it. 
2. That dreadful last half mile mentioned–well, it is also infested with ground bees. They didn’t go after me (just a lot of buzzing) but if you have a fear of bees, this trail is not for you.
3. I have never seen so many berries! They literally surround the lakes, so if berries are your thing, this is your ticket.

   

   Fresh berries in your Rose'? Yes please!

   
   
4. The campsite all the way to the left is the best, IMO. But if you choose the first one, right smack in the middle of the trail, you really shouldn’t act all annoyed that everyone is walking through your camp. I’m sorry, but that’s the price you pay for that spot, so lighten up!

   

   Choose wisely!