The Dolomites Part One--Hike to Rifugio Bergamo

I'm not the most organized person on the planet. If you've read any of my former posts, this is already a given. (losing my car key and then my tent poles being a couple strikes against me...both of which were eventually found; more on that next time) Although I may be a scatterbrain most of the time, when it comes to planning a trip, I'm usually all over it. I enjoy researching everything about where we will be going and what we will be doing; this being especially true when it comes to backpacking. I always read a ton of trip reports and look through books and almost obsessively think about exactly how things need to go. (knowing full well they rarely do)

But I had to surrender all of that if we were going to hike in the Dolomites; because as much as I tried to formulate a plan, it was just not coming together. I was overwhelmed...the area is enormous, the possibilities are practically endless, and I had no idea when or even if we would make it to Bolzono. (the gateway town to the Dolomites)

Confused in Bolzano

Most people hike at least five days when visiting these mountains, but we only had three. So I bought a book called "Shorter Walks in the Dolomites" thinking I could connect a couple of the one day routes. Unfortunately though, the maps in the book are very specific, with no way to know for sure if you can connect them safely. This was enormously frustrating for me, until I decided I just had to let go. We'd pick a day hike and hope for the best; but at least I knew we could stay one night in a Rifugio, and then head back if we had to.

This is what fascinated me most about the Dolomites."Rifugio" is the name for the boarding houses that are scattered everywhere in the mountains for hikers and climbers to use. Little hotels in the middle of nowhere; it seemed too good to be true. I had to see one for myself. (The translation is "hut", which is how I described them to Ken. Boy, was he surprised when he saw one)

After getting to Bolzono way later in the day than I wanted (my night train idea having fallen apart) with no idea of where or what bus to catch, I was glad I had finally decided on one of the shortest hikes in the book. Walk #35 (out of 50) described a relatively easy 3-ish miles to Rifugio Bergamo. (I thought that's what it said, anyway) First you got off the bus at San Cipriano, then you were to cross the street to a hotel where the hike started...weird, right? Thankfully the receptionist at the hotel spoke a little English, so when I asked her if she knew about the trail she just escorted us through the bar to the other side of the hotel where there it was right out the back door. Talk about surreal.

Just getting started and WOW!

Before long the trial brought us to a Visitor Center with, would you believe it, yet another bar. I love Italy! Fate seemed to be telling me I needed to start this hike with a drink, so we ordered the house wine and sat down to contemplate our good fortune.

The Visitor Center...

...with helpful maps

Providence did seem to be on our side when we narrowly avoided heading out in the wrong direction. (maybe the wine wasn't such a great idea) Everything was going so splendidly, until we realized I had failed to notice that getting to the Rifugio was an "extension" of the easy hike; an extra hour and a half and straight up extension. Hummm....wishing we hadn't spent that extra time at the bar, because it was beginning to get dark.

I couldn't help starting to think about not being able to find this supposed boarding house; or maybe for some reason it was closed, or full, or shut down. Our fairly heavy backpacks were basically just our vacation suitcases we had to bring along...I doubted my cute sundresses with matching flats were going to help me get through a night at almost 7,000 feet. (though the wine we bought in Cortona might)

We are going to get there, right?

 

Just when I was starting to feel a panic coming on, we saw a flag perched on a pinnacle. Ken got to it first, and I pleaded for him to tell me that he could see the Rifugio. The way he excitedly got out the camera told me he could.

Rifugio Bergamo

What a sight to behold...we were saved! Stepping into the Rifugio was better than I ever imagined. It felt like coming home. A warm stove, a home cooked meal, and families with children playing on the floor. (Italian kids must be pretty hard core...but then again, they were not carrying 40-ish pound backpacks!) I seriously had to keep myself from crying and giving the host a big hug.

The stove complete with hangers to dry your clothes

Even better was finding out we could make it to the place I really wanted to see the next day. Rifugio Bolzano here we come.

To go to part 2: http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-dolomites-part-two-hike-to-rifugio.html

Hiking In Italy

Ken sporting my backpack...glad I didn't buy a pink one

I'm still pinching myself. Look at that title--can you believe it? I never expected to make it to Europe, even as much as I hoped to. (I say Europe, because we were also able to visit Germany to see our former exchange student; no hiking involved though)  It was one of those experiences that just came together somehow, and afterward you have to wonder, "Did that really happen?" Thankfully I have pictures to prove it, and we managed to get some hiking in, so I can write about it as well. 

What's the first thing you do in Rome?
 Climb on the statues and act stupid, of course!

Looking back on our adventures, it's hard to define what was a "hike", and what was not. What makes walking around and enjoying the scenery "hiking" and not just "taking a stroll"? Technically speaking, I should probably only write about hiking in the Dolomite's; which I can't wait to do, because it truly was the best hiking of my life. But I've decided to first give some info on three walks that I think are worth mentioning, even if I can't call them hikes. I hope they will be helpful to anyone who is researching inexpensive things to do in the area; I know I would have appreciated it when I was doing the same. (Although, you WILL spend a ton of money, no matter how much you try not to. Better to except that beforehand)

Grappa in your espresso...the Italian way to start the day

Non-hike #1) Night walk though Rome:
I'm not going to give specifics about this, because it's described in detail in Rick Steve's "Pocket Rome". I'm mentioning it mostly to let you know there truly is something magical about walking through Rome at night; and to advise you to save your money on everything else. This is just my opinion of course, but I really didn't see the point in spending a ton of cash to tour the sights. (made that mistake with the Sistine Chapel, and regretted it) Rome itself IS the sight, and it's all around you. Rome is a great example of the saying, "the best things in life are free", so take advantage of it.

Non-hike #2) Cortona to Conveto delle Celle
We stayed 7 days in Cortona, which is a very small, quaint, and incredibly old town in the Tuscany area. Again, the town itself is the main attraction, but it only takes a couple days to explore the entire thing. Without a car, you have to get a little creative as to how to spend your time. (although, just sitting in town and drinking wine is a great option)

Real monks wear Keens

We decided to spend one afternoon walking to the monastery where St. Francis spent some time; and we were not disappointed...once we got there.

I scribbled down the directions off of Google, thinking they looked so easy; but it was harder than I thought. (I take for granted being able to stop and ask directions...that didn't work out so well. Did you know they don't speak English in Italy? So weird. ;)) Hopefully these directions will work better for you:

At the top of Cortona

1) Walk up to the biggest church on the top (there are a ton of churches, but this is the main one--as long as you keep heading up, you are guaranteed to find it) and take that exit out of town. (exit meaning the big arch opening of the wall that surrounds the town...so cool)

2) When you get to the next town (town meaning store and restaurant) take a left at the fork heading down.
3) When the road turns left, keep going straight on the smaller unpaved road. You'll see a sign for a monastery; don't be confused that it's not the right name. It is the one your looking for. 
4) Keep walking for about a mile; you'll run right into it.

Non-hike #3) Isola Marroire
If your staying in Cortona, you'll have to take a bus, then a train to Lake Trasimeno, then a ferry to get to this island. This takes a bit of planning...go to the information/tourist office in town and they will help you. This was a day I felt like looking cute; but I'm glad we took my hiking shoes to change into because this is quite a walk. (maybe even a real hike?)

Nobody I asked seemed to think this island was worth going to, but I'm so glad we went anyway. It only takes a couple hours to walk around the whole island and see several very interesting historic sites; we both agreed it was pretty amazing. Not to mention the ferry ride being beautiful and relaxing; I would highly recommend it as a day's excursion. 

A run down castle on the island

As remarkable and stunning as our trip was thus far, the best is yet to come. The Shangri-La of the hiking world is our next stop. Prepare to be amazed. 
To go to Dolomite Hike: http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-dolomites-part-one-hike-to-rifugio.html

The unbelievable view from our room in Cortona
To stay there yourself go to
http://www.togethertuscany.com/

Buck Creek Pass (Part 3)

(continued from http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/08/spider-gap-buck-creek-pass-loop-part-2.html )

It seems that if you've taken a three mile detour to see an amazing view of a lake, you should at least suck it up and go the one mile more to actually see it. Though, considering the circumstances, can you blame me for not giving a crap? I figured I had about five to six more hours of hiking to get to Middle Ridge (the next stop to "tent"--with no tent, of course) and I had no time to waste. So, with a "screw you" to Image Lake, I turned right around and headed back to the main trail.

This loop takes you for a few miles on the PCT...pretty cool

A little taste of the PCT

I told just about every person I ran into (including the three guys from the previous day) about leaving my tent poles at Upper Lyman Lake. I didn't care if I looked stupid, (I was stupid, after all) I was just hoping I could somehow get my poles back if enough people knew about it. I had to talk fast though, because if you stopped for more than 10 seconds, the black flies were on you like white on rice.

I hiked, and hiked, and hiked, and hiked. There was one little camp site I didn't know about, in the woods just before you start the real push up. Very cute--right next to a stream. I took off my pack and stocked up on water, thinking it may be my last chance. (It wasn't...not by a long shot. Middle Ridge is a dry camp, so you need to get your water sometime before you get there; though I could have waited at least an hour) I really thought about staying there, but I had heard there was a spot on Middle Ridge that had "the best views ever". I just had to go for it.

Happy little trees...looks like Bob Ross painted it himself

By the time I got to the top, I again couldn't have given a crap about the views. I started in on trying to attempt to make some sort of use out of my pole-less tent.

Glacier Peak in morning glory

All I had were the tie down ropes that came with the tent (to secure your tent in high winds) and I thought I was quite clever to attach them to trees; converting the rain fly into a kind of tarp. Although, MacGyver I am not...all I was doing was making a sort of bowl to catch rain water--and there was still some threatening clouds and thunder in the sky.

At this time two men came over the ridge and asked if I minded sharing my site, because they couldn't take another step. Boy, did I get it; and of course there was plenty of room. They took one look at my monstrosity of a tarp covering and asked if I could use some help. Hell yes! Saved again by those who know what they are doing--hallelujah!

Thank you Peter and Earl! I'm so mad this picture is so blurry.
It looked good to me when I took it...
which says a lot about my brain function at the time

I am always so humbled by other hikers. They had all kinds of extra rope, extra water (I was almost out) extra poncho in case my tent failed (though now it was new and improved and even upright!)...those guys had everything. I loved Peter's ancient looking cooking pots. They have seen their fair share of adventures, I am sure. They were just so nice to me, and I am forever grateful for their kindness.

I woke up early, and was excited to hike up a short side path that went even higher to see the sunrise. It's these moments that make it all worth it. No words to describe...and the pictures are garbage compared to the real thing. You just have to go there yourself.

I left at 7:30 in the morning and didn't stop. Hiking, hiking, hiking, hiking. The views over Buck Creek Pass...the best ever, really. But as soon as I was headed down, I was over it. And let me tell you, the slog out is LONG, boring, and fu@#ing endless. I was SOOOO over it. I finally stopped at a camp I came to in the woods--the black flies were making me crazy, but I had to stop. A pair of hikers past me by on their way out. They said I had 4 miles to go. (they had hiked in that way the day before) Deep breath...just four more miles. 

A mirror is not one of the 10 essentials...obviously

Thinking I could calculate my mileage by how many songs I had listened to (according to what I averaged whenever I worked out on a treadmill...when I'm not wearing a pack or completely dead tired...but I have never claimed to have the best reasoning skills) I figured I was on my last song...MY LAST SONG! I just cannot convey the level of my exhaustion; I have never been so utterly shot. I was so relieved that my car was going to come into view at any second...probably before the end of the song, actually. This is when I ran into the first hiker coming towards me; I couldn't resist asking..."how much longer until the parking lot?" (was he going to say one minute, or five? Oh please God, not ten!)

"Oh...I'd say about an hour."

I think I asked if he was kidding three times. He finally said, "well, maybe it's not an hour, but I've been hiking quite a while"...with a "what the hell is your problem?" tone in his voice.

Buck Mountain

As soon as he was gone, I threw my pack down, laid on top of it, and sobbed for 5 minutes straight. I'm not even kidding--SOBBED; like a baby...like someone had just died. It was so ridiculous. A hiker on the Appalachian Trail averages about 20 miles a day. My daily average was about 12. I think I may be screwed. 

I did eventually make it to my car, of course. (in one hour and 15 minutes...the final 15 minutes seemingly lasting 4 hours) It was there in the lot, as promised; and my extra key was still in my pack where I had hid it. (Not that I was obsessively worrying or anything! ;)) But take a look at my ride:

click on the pics if you can't read the messages

Have you ever seen anything so sweet? I'd love to do 500 miles on the Appalachian Trail when I turn 50...but if I never do, it's okay. I have family and friends who really love me, and that's what truly matters. I hope I never forget it.

You gotta stop at Zeke's...even if it makes you sorry later.

Spider Gap-Buck Creek Pass Loop (Part 2)

Are you doing the loop?" I eagerly asked them.

Looking down on Lower Lyman

 

I was ready to head back to Spider Meadows in disgrace, because I just couldn't find the trail to get down from the gap to the lakes. But just as I was headed back up, three guys were starting their way down; and yes, they said they were doing the loop! I was saved!
"How do you get down?" I wanted to know.
"You just go down the glacier."

Can you see the way down? Right down the middle

 

Sheesh, I should have followed my first instinct.(I did have a map; it's just there is a "gap" at that point, thus a little confusing) I asked the guys if they knew where that stupid trail to the right that just about got me killed was going, and they said to some abandoned mine or something. (well, I didn't say it almost got me killed; I don't know if I was ever in that much danger...but it felt like it)

You can see the first snow field I crossed in part one
(not the highest one)
and the ridge with no way down

 

They said they didn't mind if I followed them, but of course I couldn't keep up with them to save my life. (I am admittedly the slowest hiker ever) As soon as they were off the snow, they took off like rockets. I couldn't help still feeling panicky and vulnerable, because there was still no trail to follow--just a talus slope. Two women were coming towards me fast from behind...maybe they wouldn't mind me hanging with them?

Except they weren't doing the loop; they were from Alaska and hiking for 10 days on whatever trail they felt like. (many intersecting trails in this area; including the PCT) I could tell they were the real deal, and I'm sure they could tell I was not. They seemed pretty relieved to tell me they were doing a different hike; like girls who just got out of babysitting their kid sister. I hate feeling like a tag along, (yes, I had a big sister who was always trying to ditch me) except I really just wanted to stay close enough to see the best way down. They lost me faster than the boys did, though I did manage to scramble my way down anyway. (It wasn't pretty)

Not much of a trail on the talus slope

 

I was so exhausted (I think mentally more than physically) and decided I'd stop at the first camp site I could. Wouldn't you know Thelma and Louise were already there. I swallowed my pride and asked if they minded if I shared their site, because I couldn't go any further. It turned out they were deciding if they really wanted to camp there or not, and opted not because of the bugs. (and probably also because kid sister just showed up)

 

The Alaskan Superwomen "Big Sisters"
(in experience, not age, of course)

 

I didn't care about no stinking bugs; I was ready to crash. I couldn't wait to get into my nice safe tent and just relax. Although, the bugs were horrendous; that is true. I had to spray deet around the tent zipper just to get in.

A thing of beauty

 

I want to say here how much I love my tent. There is nothing about it I don't love. I think everybody in the world should buy the Marmot Pulsar--or anything from Marmot, really. I'm not saying that only because I'm hoping they will give me new tent poles when I send them a link to this blog explaining that I left mine at the bug infested site when I hauled out of there so fast in the morning as to try to avoid getting eaten alive...but I say it because I really mean it, too.

The gap, Upper Lyman, and Lower Lyman Lakes

 

It took me 5 hours to get to Image Lake, a purported "must do" detour off of the loop, and where I had planned to spend my 3rd night. Though, I never did see it. When I got to where I was going to camp, (about a mile from the lake) the black flies were INSANE. And horse flies too--it was a full on assault. No worries though, I knew I could get my Pulsar up in 3 minutes flat (Marmot sure makes a good product, right?:)) and all would be well. Too bad my tent poles weren't in my pack. I actually laughed, which is really unlike me; usually I would have been crying. You should have seen me trying to eat my lunch inside my flaccid tent, with my trekking poles sort of propped up behind me to at least get the mesh away from my skin because the bugs were covering me and would still bite if they got a chance. It was just ludicrous--what else can one do but laugh?

Good Lord, I hate crossing these.
How hard is it to make a hand rail?

I could hear my husband's voice encouraging me to tough it out...he was sleeping in a bivvy bag, after all. (because I had to take the tent with me after the first night...the amazingly awesome Marmot Pulsar tent that fit us both comfortably, that is :)) Although, considering he was almost stomped on by a deer in the middle of the night, I can't say I'm buying into the "you don't need a tent" concept. (This bivvy bag was a relic from Ken's old climbing days, and when he took it out of storage it smelled like death. I still can't believe he slept in that thing; I'm surprised a bear didn't try to bury him in it as a snack for later)

Soooo roomy on our first night

Ken's bivvy bag of death

This deer could have been stomping on my head,
if not for my awesome tent...
that needs new poles, please Marmot company!

 

I decided I was out of there. No, I wouldn't go back for my poles - five hours, are you kidding? And who knows if they would even still be there. (Update: someone had picked them up...read the unbelievable story here.) I figured I could make it to the next camping spot before dark, and then out the next day. Yes, I still had to spend one night without a tent, but it was better than two. I only wish I would have considered more thoughtfully just how hard cramming what should have been three days of hiking into two. To be continued. 

Click here for part three: http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/08/buck-creek-pass.html