Finding Magic on Pine and Cedar Lakes Trail

"It's extra magical today," says the trail runner coming down just as I was heading up. This is one of the only times I was out hiking only because I wanted to get a workout in, so I didn't have magic on my mind. The weather was crappy, therefore I bagged my grand plans of finally crossing Hidden Lake Lookout off the list and "settled" for this hike with the intentions of trying to keep in shape and seeing if I could do it somewhat fast. 

I sort of figured anyone out on this drizzly day probably had the same aim...especially a trail runner. But her positive declaration shifted my mindset. I stopped thinking about speed and how this day was a down grade and instead tried to put my magical glasses on too. And then I saw that she was 100% right. May all your trails be just as enchanting.

"The day I decided that my life was magical, there was suddenly magic all around me." Marabeth Quin

Thank you, Pine...

And Cedar Lakes!

And here's all you need to know about the hike in two pictures. First time I've used an app to track me like this...I swear I was not drunk hiking! Maybe they always turn out looking this crazed? I guess I'll find out next time I try it. 

screen shot of trail before

Post hike screen shot; though ignore that mileage...it's supposed to be only a 5 mile up and back! I guess if you hike like a spaz you add a couple miles? Ha ha, I never trust apps when it comes to mileage.

I Think My Suffering Tank Has a Leak

I know I said in my last post that my suffering tank was full - but it didn't even last a week! My friend, Janet, texted me saying she was going to finish up the section of the Timberline we missed (story ) with our other friend, Dani, who was doing the whole thing. "You won't even need to take Friday off...I know you're tempted," she enticed. 

Though hanging with two of the best people ever would not have been suffering, and it looked to be a perfect weekend; so obviously I was in! Except I couldn't get the Monday off, and so then I was out. WAAAAA!!!

Of course, now that I was all amped to hike, I had to find something else to do. So what did I pick? Just the hardest day hike I could possibly think of. BRING ON THE SUFFERING!

Mailbox Peak is one of those hikes you have to do, even though you don't want to. It's a right of passage if you are a hiker in Washington. I've dreaded it for years, but now was the time. With over 300 miles put in this year, I knew it's probably the best my legs were ever going to be. 

When I was only maybe 500 feet from the summit, a young man coming down looked at me and exclaimed with extreme sincerity, "I am so proud of you!" It took me a little off guard...I mean, what the hell, do I look like a need a walker or something? Ha ha, but he was so genuinely impressed and sweet, I couldn't take offence. And I suppose there wasn't a whole lot of other 50 year olds on the trail that day; so hell yeah, I'm proud of me too. Though I wished I would have replied back, "South Sister was harder."

A few hopefully helpful things below for anyone looking to check Mailbox Peak off their list. Happy "pretty impressive for an old lady" trails. 

THINGS TO KNOW:

1) There are actually two ways to get to the top- the old "legendary" way, and the new and improved way. The old way is a straight up through the woods, no thrills, get er' done push. You will gain 4K elevation in just 2.7 miles, so it's no joke. The newer trail is twice as long, but is really pleasant and doesn't try to kill you. I chose to go up the hard way and go down the "easy" way; which IMO is a pretty solid plan. Together they make a 7.7 day, which took me a good 7 hours - slower than I anticipated, even without a walker. ;)

2) Don't forget to bring something to put in the mailbox, and take something out. That's the best part! I am really hoping someone will take my book and then get back to me about how much they loved it. :)

whoever wrote this - you are amazing

3) October is the time to do this hike! Even though this is a really popular hike, it wasn't crowded at all...probably because everyone is out looking for larches. And though you won't find them here, there is still some really nice fall color. 

4) The lower lot fills up before the upper lot; probably because people assume the upper is already full. Go on to the upper lot - there is a nice turn around if it is full. I found at least half the spots still open at 8 am.

5) Don't get confused by the maps in the lots - both trails start at the same place from the upper lot. The "Mailbox Peak Road" shown is the first part of the trail. Go up the "road", passing the sign for the new trail until you come to the old trail. You can't miss it, unless you go down to the real road thinking that's where the trail starts.(Like the two gals who were starting at the same time as me. I tried to tell them...though they still caught me within an hour.)  

Suffering Tank Gets Filled at Home Lake

Another 6 miles gained on the PNT towards my 500 goal, though I had to hike 24 to earn them. Sometimes I seriously have to ask what the heck is wrong with me. Why do I crave suffering? Though I know I'm not alone. When my friend, Dani, messaged me about this trip I answered, "Such a beautiful weekend! But DAMN it was cold. Tent was totally frozen this morning" to which she responded, "Damn!! I miss the trails!!!" with a sad face...as if freezing your ass off is the best time ever. 

Though, look at these pictures. This kind of scenery pulls us like a magnant. Except, I know it's more than that. The Appalachian Trail lacked views most the time; and even though that made me grumpy, I kept on hiking - loving and hating it all the while. Maybe us hikers have some weird trauma bond with nature?

But I can tell you one thing, there is little else that will get me up at 4 am. Second time in two weeks I was up at that hour to get on trail. Marmot Pass to Home Lake has been on my list for awhile, though I was really hoping to make it a leisurely three day excursion with friends. But this last beautiful weekend just before the season closes sealed the deal - I had to go solo and get er' done in two days. 

So, 436.7 down, 63.3 more to go. I told myself I was going to squeeze in Devil's Dome Loop (or I should say half of it) this coming weekend if the weather was nice (which it will be) but I just don't have it in me. I won't say this last trip broke me...but I will say it filled my "I need suffering" tank - for now. Happy "know when to say when" trails. Trip details below if interested, as always.

Day 1: Caught the first ferry at Edmonds and was hiking by 8:30 am. The forest road here is grade A - I think they must have recently did road work because there was maybe one pot hole.The trail itself is grade A too, though you gain 3K getting up to the pass, so it's a steady grind. (I did the Big Quilcene trail to get to the pass, though I've heard going in by way of the Dungeness is easier.) Then it's down down to Boulder Shelter (no shelter that I could find though) and relatively flat for awhile. But that last mile...ugh. I was STRUGGLING with the incline and had my head phones on because it helps me. I only saw one trail runner after Marmot Pass, and it was getting late, so I gave up on the idea that anyone would come up behind me. So Brad scared the absolute shit out of me. We were the only ones at the lake, so he came over when I was settled to say hi and ask if I would heat his water, being as he doesn't carry a stove. It was so frigid, so I didn't blame him for not wanting to eat his meal cold like he usually did. When he left he warned me he'd be gone before I left because he was getting up real early. I said I was getting up early too, to which he replied, "No, like I'll be out of here before first light"...as if nobody else knows how to get up at that hour. I tried not to gloat when I passed his camp in the morning while he was still packing up...but I might have just a tinge. ;) This day was 11.6 miles total. 

Day 2: Total miles for this day was 12.4. Like I mentioned, I was hiking by 5:30 am. I'm not a headlight hiker, but it needed to be done because I couldn't be this close to Constance Pass and not do the extra half mile to the top. I was wearing EVERYTHING I had, but that wind up top...BURRRR. I could see the outline of ridges, but not much else, though I was certainly not waiting for sunrise. I didn't take off even one layer until 11:00 am, and even with gloves my hands did not warm up until that time. I think I was off trail at 1:45? I BOMBED down that forest road to get to Quilcene because I was STARVING, and even thought I'm trying to be dry this month I could not resist a beer to go with my patty melt and it was so amazing. They even gave me a free sample for Sammy, which is why Quilbilly's is the best.

Always have to take a picture here ;)

South Sister Summit with a New Hiking Sister

Is there anything worse than waking up at 4:15 in the morning knowing you set your alarm for 3:30 - especially when you have a plane to catch? And who flies just 174 miles to only do a 13 mile hike anyway? Well I sure wouldn't, except Heidi asked me to. And I can't say no when it comes to hiking. Addicted. 

I am always looking for a fix

Heidi was at my door at 4 am, and tried everything she could think of to wake me from the dead. Though somehow we made our flight, even being off of our tight schedule; but let me tell you, I would not recommend cutting things close at the Sea Tac airport if you can help it!

No hiking required for an airplane mountain view

Raychel was ready at the Portland airport to whisk us away and get us to the South Sister Trailhead by early afternoon. She came into the picture because I'm too cheap to pay for a rental car, and we still had four hours of driving to go. And I know hiking addicts - if strangers invite you to go hiking because they have three people on the permit and need a ride - you ask for the days off and say hell yes, let's go!

Raychel getting her hiking fix. Haha, I guess this is how nurses filter water?

And that's why it's so easy to bond with folks in the hiking community...we all have the same malfunctioning brain. "You want me to climb 4,900 feet in just 5.5 miles to the top of a volcano? Sounds really painful...I'm in!"

But is there anything better than being with your people, suffering together, while also treasuring every minute of doing what you love best? Nope - and it makes up for all the rest. Even having an alarm set for 3:30 am that doesn't work. Happy "making the tight schedule work" trails! Itinerary below for those interested. 

Samquatch at the summit

TRAIL LOG:

Day 1: Trains, planes and automobiles later (we also took the Light Rail to get to Sea Tac from Northgate) we arrived at the Devil's Lake/South Sister parking lot at around 2 pm. Heidi's permit included two nights at the beautiful Moraine Lake, so thankfully we only had 3 miles to do this day. A ranger immediately asked to see our permit before we even got started, so don't try to cheat on this one. She was so nice though, and gave us the low down on the best sites to go for...the ones farthest from the water, of course. It may just be about a tenth of a mile down to the lake from sites #1-3, but it feels much longer when you are lugging up your water at the end of the day. But the ranger was right - the view from up there was worth it. 

Number 3 is the best

Day 2: Another early alarm, but thankfully this one worked. Morning coffee and day packs filled, we started heading up at 7 am because we knew this was going to be a challenging day. It was only about 4  miles to the summit, but once you start gaining, you gain hard. The final "Red Mile" is a beast, but at least you have great views. 

We took a lunch break at the false summit, where I'm guessing most people eat because the chipmunks there are not messing around. They expect a hand out, and if you refuse, they may just jump in your lap to get em'! 

Then one last push to the summit, and then what I thought was the best part, a loop around the crater. (We went CCW, which most recommend.) This is no stroll though, so be prepared for some rock scrambles.

At one point, the trail seems to disappear, but you just need to climb up a little to find the footpath again. I shudder to think if anyone thinks they could go down the scree and find their way back up to the trail - that would be really bad news.

Stay around the edge

After completing the loop, there's the daunting task of going all the way back down the way you came, which will feel endless. Heidi celebrated finally getting back to the lake by taking off all her clothes. Ha ha -- the bare butt/lake/mountain shot has been on her bucket list for awhile, so I was happy to be her photographer. She did curse a little at whomever had posted that this lake was warm...I guess water temp is quite subjective. 

Day 3: Just the 3 miles back out to the car, then the four hour drive back to the airport. We hiked fast enough to have some spare time to spend at the Mt Hood Brewery - my second time there in 5 weeks! With my friend Janet, and now Raychel both in Portland, I'm thinking a stop here needs to be a yearly tradition. I'm sure glad I have frequent flyer miles :)

Vesper Peak Pain

My friend, Heidi, is going to summit Mount Rainer in less than two weeks. In doing so, she will accomplish her goal of completing the 5 volcanoes of Washington before turning 60. Maybe we were drawn to each other because of our mutual obsession with age related goal making? Regardless the reason, we are now hiking buddies; and I needed to help Heidi get in another hard workout to prepare for the big Rainer day. 

It's been 20 years since Heidi did Vesper Peak, and it's been on my list since I've known her because she bragged about how amazing it was...and difficult. So hey, Heidi, you want a tough work out - let's hit it! 

I've often said I tend to ignore elevation gain information before doing a hike. In fact, I made a comment on an Instagram account for a 3D route planning tool saying "I personally like to live in complete denial of elevation gain so I can experience maximum suffering" that currently has 541 likes. But this time I looked Vesper Peak up beforehand and saw that it gains 4,000 feet in 8 miles. "Okay, that's not so bad," I thought...stupidly not considering it's an out and back, so the gain is acquired in half those miles. Maximum suffering achieved!

And though of course I'm trying to be funny, it is actually true that I find satisfaction in finishing a hike and feeling like I want to die. I haven't felt that degree of suffering all summer; so thank you Vesper Peak - and may we never meet again. Happy "pleasure in the pain" trails. "Things to Know" list below for those interested.

Vesper Peak Info:

1) The forest road has potholes, but it is better than most, which may be why we saw a forest service truck heading up at the end of day as we leaving, our guess was to check for NW Forest Passes; so make sure you have one. 

Prepare for rocks

2) There are places to camp by the lake, above the lake on the ridge, and also past the summit on the other side. But my God, you will work for it. A big "no thank you" for me.

...rocks

3) A good 90% of this trail is maneuvering over rocks of all kinds. You need to stay focused if you don't want to twist an ankle. When I took my eyes off my feet for just a second on the granite scramble coming down from the top, I instantly found myself on my back when I stepped on a loose rock. Poor Sammy took the brunt of the fall. 

Thanks for having my back, Samsquatch

4) Because of all the rock, you really should leave your dog at home, IMO. My heart broke hearing one whimpering as he tried to quickly get across the hot scree field - it had to hurt.  

...and more rock!

Failing is the New Winning

As Julie and I drove from Washington to Oregon on our way to do the Timberline Trail, I wanted to say, "You know, this will be my first actual thru hike," but I didn't want to jinx it. I have never aspired to be thru hiker of the "big" trails - I am quite pleased with my new "500 Miles on 5 National Trails" goal. (I really should change the name of this blog.) But I did intend to finish the Wonderland in one go (took me four) and complete the Trans-Catalina (missed out on the last 13 miles) and though I try not to let that kind of thing bother me, it still does a little. So even though the Timberline is only 40 miles and has never been on my bucket list, I couldn't help but be a bit excited to finally be able to say I actually finished something on the first try. 

Timberline was a last minute pivot, after my painstakingly arduous year long planning of Devil's Dome/Desolation Peak went literally up in smoke. Thankfully hiking partner, Janet, lives near Portland and took the reigns on making the itinerary for our Plan B Timberline adventure. Janet is tall in personality, but not in stature - so she was taking the five major fords on this trail very seriously. "Fords, Shmords" was my thinking...until we hit the Eliot at 1:40 pm on our second day. 

meet Sammy here

My pride really wanted to force me across - "Are you really going to fail AGAIN?" my inner critic sneered. While the turbulent water raged under the skinny log as we watched others teeter over like tight rope walkers, the voice poked again, "If they can do it, why can't you?" (Video here)

Except I couldn't stop looking downstream - imagining the consequences of slipping. Or even worse, having to watch one of my friends bounce off rocks while the water rushed them away from me because I pressured them to do something they were uncomfortable doing. 

Finally the pride clamp loosened as my better self whispered, "What does it really matter if you don't finish? Why is that so important, when you are really here to hang out with your friends?" And so we turned around: went back up to the campground just a half mile away, drank the rest of the bourbon, played cards with fellow hikers, ate spaghetti leftovers from our car camping neighbors, and came up with Plan C on how to finish the loop without actually finishing the loop. That will be explained in the trail log below, but I'll leave you here with a life and hiking lesson that has proven true for me over and over again: relax your grip on what you think you need to have, and you will be free to enjoy something even better. Happy "it's okay to bail" trails! 

TRAIL LOG

Day 1: Started at the lodge going counterclockwise (CCW) so we could hit the White crossing early. Got over pretty easily, as well as the next couple of lesser crossings. Coming to the Newton at late afternoon, we found a bit more of a challenging situation. Just as we were approaching it, we got "man-splained" by a guy going CW. I'll confess my pride flared and I knew I was going to cross it just to prove to him I could. And we did, though with all the time it took to do the crossings (we always removed shoes) we knew we were not going to make our 13 + mile goal to Cloud Cap Camp. Janet had hoped to make the Eliot crossing early next day, but she underestimated my sloth speed. We ended up camping at the first spot we came to at 9.1 miles. (FYI, push up a little further if you can - great views starting at 9.5 miles with quite a few options. But no water anywhere up there, so pack it in.) 

Day 2: Tough couple miles to the high point, but then it was glorious mountain top meandering for the next couple miles to Cloud Cap. This may be the best argument for going CCW. It was SO nice not to be struggling uphill or overheating, but just leisurely enjoying the breathtaking views.

and you know I love my brella to help with the heat!

We took advantage of the privy and picnic tables for lunch once we got to Cloud Cap, then headed down the steep half mile to face the Eliot and then continue on another 5 miles to camp at Elk Cove. BUT...well you already know that didn't happen. 

Julie says, "Screw the Eliot!" ;) 

With the half mile back up to Cloud Cap and also going up to the end of the road to check out the very cool Cloud Cap Inn (no, you can't stay there - but you should Google it; some cool history there) we probably did a total of 6.5 this day. There is some cell service here, so a call to Janet's husband got us a ride out of there early next day. John drove THREE HOURS to rescue us, so he gets husband of the year award for sure. When I told my husband this, he said, "I'm a nice guy; but I would have told you to get your asses over that crossing in the morning." Haha, we did contemplate doing that, as the ford is surely much better early - but the ugly scramble up the other side was our deal breaker. Janet's other reason for picking CCW was thinking the "scree" she read about would be easier to go up than down, but it looked much more like loose sand. Going CW and scooting down on your butt is probably the easiest way; though then you don't have the easy bail out at Cloud Cap. So we were VERY grateful Janet choose CCW. 

Day 3: After picking us up, John drove us at least another hour to drop us off at the Ramona Falls TH. We marched up the couple of miles (after having to cross the Sandy... good log there, so no worries)

my kind of log cross

then we hit the TT again, then hurried down to the Sandy a second time to tackle the more difficult crossing. We really thought we'd go up to see the famous Ramona Falls, but time was ticking and we really didn't want to face a repeat of the day before. Good thing, because the water was already crotch level at noon. Whew, made it, then the relentless upward 3 miles to Paradise Park. Janet used her speed to get there early and secure a spot, as it is a very popular place - especially on a Friday when there is an anticipated big meteor shower show. A total of 7 miles for this day. 

Day 4: Just the 6 miles left back to my car at Timberline. Since we were up at 4 am to see the meteor show, we got on trail early and were able to enjoy the rest of Paradise Park all to ourselves. This was absolute magic - the highlight of the trip.

Wildflower heaven

Then it was down to connect to the TT again, and from there on it was like swimming upstream. SO...MANY...PEOPLE.

get in line

Though I say this is another CCW pro - I'd much rather step aside than having folks passing me constantly. (But admittedly, I'm slow.) We were able to veer away from the masses at the Kiosk, where there is an alt trail that goes down to the lodge instead of continuing the TT up and above the lodge. Yet another reason why letting go of the need to say I did the entire Timberline Trail was a real blessing. Another blessing is the beer at the Mount Hood Brewery, and if you like blue cheese, their BBQ and blue cheese burger is to die for...or maybe I should say, worth NOT dying for. ;) Stay safe everyone.