Living the Dream (Hiking in Nevada/Utah/Arizona)

Motivational speaker, Matt Foley, warned us all that we would probably grow up to amount to "JACK SQUAT" and find ourselves "living in a van down by the river." Well, la dee frickin' da, wouldn't you know that's exactly where my husband and I found ourselves...and I can't think of a better way for us to have celebrated 30 years of marriage. (Only thing that could have made it better was if we had "rolled some doobies", ha ha!)

Hell yes! LTD!

Would you pass the government cheese, dear?

I was pretty surprised when my husband agreed to spend a week driving around in such a "colorful" set of wheels; but I had found such a great deal, and frankly, he probably would have agreed to just about anything only to get away for a few days. Though thankfully he's learned to enjoy hiking just for hiking sake, (not easy for a former adrenaline addict climber) so driving to a few of Utah's National Parks and hitting some trails was a plan we could both agree to.

After picking up our rental van in Vegas we spent our first full day hiking at Red Rock Canyon.We were so glad we had already decided to drive back to Vegas to stay another night at a hotel, because the campground there was already completely full. I had no idea this place was so enormous and that we would have so many trails to choose from. (You can drive the 12 mile scenic loop and see quite a bit without even leaving your car, but be aware there is an entrance fee...I wasn't, and by the end of this trip, I was cursing entrance fees!) I'm glad I did a little research before hand and had read that Calico Tanks was a good moderate hike of 2 and a half miles--no need to wear ourselves out straight out the gate!

A great payoff view of Vegas at the end of Calico Tanks

Immediately Ken had climber envy, and was kicking himself for not packing his climbing shoes and a chalk bag so he could at least do a little bouldering. Every hike on this trip provided him nearly endless opportunities to salivate over routes. "Look at that overhang!...man, that crack is endless...can you see where they drilled the bolts?"--oh, the heartbreak of missing one's glory days. 

I wanna keep going!!

"Ken, get back here!!!"...JK, this is some other lucky climber

Speaking of younger years, visiting Zion after 10 years away (we celebrated our 20th there by doing "The Narrows") made us long for the good ol' days. We thought it was busy then, but it's a whole new level of crazy now. It was unfortunately proving to be Ken's worst nightmare come true...wait in line for the campsite (over an hour, though we were lucky to even get one)...wait in line for the permit (no luck there; water at "The Subway" hike was running too high as it was still March)...wait in line for the shuttle (no cars allowed anymore, even during "slow" season)...wait in line for the bathroom...and finally the kicker, wait in line for the trail!!!

Somebody shoot me

You'd think death warnings would be a deterrent

"Calling number 753...it's your turn"

Seriously, Angels Landing looked more like a Disneyland attraction than anything you should find in nature. Ken had been pondering why on earth Utah would pick "The Beehive State" as it's official nickname; but waiting and observing the buzzing masses, he turned to me and simply said, "now I get it." 

Relaxing? I sure hope you know how to tie a knot!

The next day we decided to abandon our hard fought for site and continue on to Bryce. Looking at the forecast and seeing nothing good anywhere, we decided if we were going to get rained on, we might as well have a change of scenery.

Goodbye Zion! 

Hello Bryce!!

It was a good call, because lucky for us Bryce got cold enough to bless us with snow instead! We did the "Figure 8", which is a combo of both the Navajo Loop and the Peekaboo Loop, and I could not recommend it more highly. What I wouldn't recommend though is trying to sneak off to pee when your husband has the camera. ;)

Where's Waldo?

The only regret we had for this leg of the trip was not buying more firewood to last us into the freezing night. But resourcefulness prevailed, as we found quite a plunder of charred log remains at our neighboring sites. (I always find this activity oddly thrilling...must be my extreme love of free stuff)

I got the quesadillas!

I got the Coronas and salsa!

#wefoundourbeach

In the morning we scraped the ice off the van and doubled back to Zion in hopes that the water level had receded enough to snag a last chance permit, but it was not to be. Some quick Google searches for an alternate hike lead us to a less popular trail in the Kolob Canyon area just outside of Zion. Another good choice, because our muscles were still upset over the steep declines and inclines of the previous two days, and Taylor Creek is an easy in and out 5 mile beauty. (And it's included in your Zion Park entrance fee--thank God because I couldn't handle another fee)

"Would you look at the size of that wall?!? Sigh..."

Historic cabin on the trail

Very cool arch at the end of the hike

Go another 10 minutes (no real trail) and you get another treat

The last hike of the trip took us to a new state; and although I had thought I had outwitted the fee Gods by choosing it, lo and behold you have to pay $30 just to drive through the Lake Mead area to get to it! (You could avoid this by coming a different direction, but we did end up camping at Lake Mead, because of it's proximity to the hike.)

Arizona Hot Springs begins as possibly the ugliest trail I have ever been on. Starting off as a wide desert wash going under the highway, it doesn't look like anything anyone should be doing for any reason. (And you shouldn't do it for any reason in the summer, because you would fry!) But it makes up for it after about 2 miles when you arrive in the slot canyon area, and then be prepared to be blown away once you reach the hot springs.

He's always got to add the tiniest rock he can find

Now you would think sitting in such a secluded spot in 110 degree water would be relaxing, but all I could think about was not getting any water in my nose so I wouldn't die from the rare but deadly amoeba found in the springs.(It can only enter through you nose...isn't that weird?) Ken lifted his wet finger to pick his nose and I just about had a heart attack! "I just had a scratch!" he insisted, but I think he was enjoying freaking me out, as usual.

For God's sake, keep your nose above water!!!

Neither of us were aware we were less than a quarter mile from the Colorado River. I don't know how that got past me when researching this hike, but thankfully a fellow hiker filled us in. There are a few different ways to get to the springs, and obviously we choose the one that didn't include the river. So we pushed on, down the ladder, and found ourselves at another bee hive of people. A large kayaking group was camped out there (what an amazing spot) so we were extremely lucky to hit the hot springs at a time when they were not there. And so far neither of us has shown any signs of our brains being eaten by the Naegleria Fowleri amoeba, so we were fortunate all the way around. ;)

The 30 foot ladder was a little unnerving  

Of course, being married to such a great guy and good sport for a blessed 30 years...and not having to actually live in a van down by the river...is what makes me the most fortunate adventurer ever. So here's to 30 more years and many more adventures to come!

Because our ride was named "The Money Van", Ken had to
take a "money shot" to go with it. Gotta love him.

The Seasons of Squires

Squires Lake was one of the first hikes I ever did; long before I had any aspirations of backpacking. It was an easy place to drive to, bring the dog, and hope to discover a beaver with the kids. (Although on one trip a woman told me how her dog was attacked by one! So be wary of letting your pup swim in the upper pond!)

From my ancient hiking scrapbook. Am I really wearing earrings?

Since then I've gone in every season--sometimes with my dog, sometimes alone, sometimes with others. As the seasons have come and gone, suddenly my kids have grown, my dog's time is almost up, and I've become a Grandma. So lately it's my go to place to take my grandson, Liam. 

First time out hiking with Grandma!

Still has the eyebrows..."Why you doing this to me Grandma?!"

"Are we having fun yet?"

I know he may look like he'd rather have his toenails ripped out than be hiking, but he came out of the womb with that expression! He may appear grumpy; but trust me, he's just taking it all in. I know that he loves his walks with Grandma, and it's hard to think of much else that makes me happier than listening to his sweet babbling as we chug along. I fantasize about the days when he's old enough to come on an overnight trip; when we can talk all night and I'll actually understand what he's saying.

In the middle of these imaginations, I almost always think back on that day he came out of the womb, with that intense gaze of his, and it makes me teary every time. It was a life changing day for me. As the mother-in-law of my poor laboring daughter-in-law, I felt so confused about my place...how did I fit into the picture? I certainly didn't expect to be in the room when Liam was born. But somehow I found myself in the thick of it--as the designated photographer even! And then the big moment...head's out and we are waiting for his first breath in this world. Except something was wrong...the cord was wrapped a couple times around his neck...he looked blue. Instead of air going into his lungs, I swear that all the air went out of that room and none of us could breathe. Something changed in me during that minute (maybe even only seconds...felt like an eternity) because I suddenly realized with clarity that life is never a given. Every moment is a gift, and I don't want to ever take even one breath for granted again; even though I know I unfortunately will.

 Rainy Squires years ago with a friend

And so, this memory takes me back, but then it squarely places me right back in the present moment. It reminds me that I might never have even gotten the chance to have this time with my grandson, and so I want to drink it in. I don't exactly feel guilt about reaching ahead in hopes for more future adventures with him, but I know I can't hold tightly to them; the future is unknown. What is ahead, and what lies behind are not now--and now is where it's at! Now is listening to the snow crash down from the trees and getting to hear Liam's laugh of surprise. Now is watching the delightful little chickadees hop about, and the sun rays dappling the forest path. Nothing else can be the present moment; each second is like the falling snow flakes...unique, and never to come again.

Spring...

summer...

fall...

and winter

I hope for more seasons on Squires Lake Trail--moments with my kids, my dog, my friends, and most of all my beloved Liam. Although, I'll need to buy a new baby backpack, because I forgot to put mine back in the car and somehow managed to run over it as we were leaving. I never said all the moments are good ones. ;)

Frick...anybody selling a child carrier?

A Lily, a Lizard, and a Lexi

"One and done" is a great cliche, but I have an even better one..."never say never". I thought last month's snow experience was going to satisfy me for awhile, but like any addict, I'm needing my fixes more and more. Out of curiosity, and the fact I was still craving a solo trip, I looked to see what backpacking trips people have done in December. (Washington Trails Association's website is a great resource for anyone wanting to do this. Click on "find a hike" then "trip reports", then look for a small icon that says "show advanced options". This allows you to filter to a specific area or month--all kinds of things, actually. It's very handy!!) I was feeling pretty discouraged as I scrolled down because everything looked too hard or just unappealing. As I was just about to give up on the idea, I came across a report to Lily and Lizard Lake that sparked my interest. 

In all the years that I have lived in the Skagit Valley, I can hardly believe Mount Blanchard has never once come on my radar. Oyster Dome, of course, is on everyone's radar; and everyone knows you drive up Chuckanut to do it. Yes, I realize that Mount Blanchard is one and the same now, but embarrassingly if you would have asked me where Mount Blanchard was a few days ago, I would have given you the deer in the headlights look.

When I did Oyster Dome for the first time 6 years ago with my friend Melissa and we got lost, (surprise, surprise...but I will say in our defense the signage back then was very poor. All the new signs are amazing!) I remember being very intrigued by the lakes we were headed to before we figured out we were going the wrong direction. Now all the pieces have been put together, and I'm really excited to have a whole new area to explore that has basically been in my back yard this whole time! 

The white mark is for the PNT, which weaves in
and out of this area. 

I know last post I implied I was over snow--I actually never thought I'd camp in the snow in the first place. But, just like having babies, you forget the pain and only think "look how cute; let's have another!" And the picture of Lily Lake in the trip report that inspired me was all snowy and looked magical...just the kind of cuteness to get me in trouble. ;) It has been years since it snowed here (I think that report was from 2012!) therefore I knew there would not be that many opportunity's in my lifetime to go to this area so close to home and experience a winter wonderland--so even with temps dipping down to close to the teens, I decided last minute I was going for it.

As I was hurrying out the door (with knots in my stomach, not going to lie. I want the feeling, and I abhor the feeling...it's the love/hate relationship that is hiking) my daughter asked, "Are you taking Lexi?" Well, why not?!?! So I quickly shoved in my pack the oldest, nastiest sleeping bag we own and gave her the "go ahead and get in the car" nod. I did think to myself, "Sure, you're thrilled now...but wait until tonight when you can't figure out why we aren't going home. You'll probably whine and drive me crazy all night." But she's getting up in years, so who knows if this opportunity will present itself again. Carpe diem! 

She actually did great it the tent and didn't whine at all,
though she did act like she was going to barf once.
That was the most terrifying moment of the trip!

So, after driving a mere 25 minutes from my house (on the freeway going north, then off at Alger exit--so much easier than Chuckanut!) I found myself in the huge Blanchard Mountain upper parking lot. The internet directions I read said that once you turn onto the unpaved forest road, you drive all the way to the end where the trail would start. So, seeing a trailhead about half way up that said "to Lily and Lizard Lake" was confusing to say the least; but thankfully I trusted the online instructions and kept going. (when I got home I looked up Google maps and found you could start at the first trailhead, but you will just end up at the upper parking lot...so that trail seems a little pointless, IMO)

This is the sign at the 2nd trailhead.
You do have to backtrack a little ways down the road from the parking lot.

It only took me a little over 2 hours to hike the almost 4 miles to Lily. (2 miles an hour is actually pretty fast for me, believe it or not) This meant I had just enough time to make it back to the car before dark if I wanted. This messed with my head for a few minutes, because I was not expecting to have an option. Why do I want to spend the night in the freezing cold when I can simply walk out of here and be home before dinner? I know it's not exactly logical, but it didn't take me long to have absolutely no doubt I wanted to stay. I love it far more than I hate it, it's that simple.

I set up camp at the exceptionally nice site you first come to, (there are many, but the fire pit right on the lake sold me) and then used my extra time to go check out Lizard Lake. I had only an hour before dark, so I set my watch timer and told myself no matter what, I had to turn around after 30 minutes. Thankfully it was the perfect amount of time...I know myself, and if the lake was in view and it was over 30 minutes, I would have kept going...and that would have been stupid because the only thing I had with me was my dog. I know getting lost going back may have been unlikely, but I have gotten lost in even more unlikely situations.

Lizard Lake

Lizard Lake had very nice sites too

This may look like I'm having a cozy time by the fire when I got back, and trust me, I tried. Except with everything so frozen, it was just too much work and not enough cozy, so I gave up and went to bed after only a half hour or so. This is the part I was dreading the most...the LONG night...the laying there for HOURS. But I've been watching the TV show "Alone", and those guys had to hunker down in their shelters for DAYS. So, I figured 5:30 pm to 7:30 am was not going to kill me. And it wasn't that bad, because I have a real talent for sleeping.

Though of course, I wake up a lot during the night, and at one of those times I found that Lexi had gotten on my $200 NeoAir X-therm sleeping pad (worth every penny...maybe someday they will pay me for saying so) and popped it with her nails. I FREAKED out--screaming at her, shouting how I knew this would happen--and poor Lexi was so contrite and cowering in the corner, saying over and over how sorry she was. Wait a second...Lexi was telling me she was sorry? Damn it, I was having one of my crazy dreams again. I tell you, those can really be unnerving! 

With such a short hike out in the morning, I decided it was worth heading over to Oyster Dome to see it again (for the 4th time) and it did not disappoint. Not a soul there, which you know is a miracle if you've ever been. A little tricky coming down the icy steep sections on the way back (I'm never above getting on my butt and sliding down if I have to!) and then a right turn on Max's shortcut and you make a nice little loop back to your car. I think it will be tough to find a better 10-ish mile hike (easily done in a few hours if you don't have a backpack) that is only minutes from 1-5; though I'm guessing those lakes are a mosquito hell in the summer. One more reason to open my mind more to this winter hiking thing. Someone commented last post that they expected I'd be sleeping in a snow cave before long. Who knows? You know what they say, "Never say never!" ;)

You could do two loops--
or even a figure 8! Lots to explore!

P.S. FYI, the foggy forest picture you see on my main page is from that first hike I did to Oyster Dome. :)