The Dolomites Part Two--Hike to Rifugio Bolzano

You know the saying that truth is stranger than fiction? Are you ready for one of those stories?

I explained last post that my husband and I were hiking in the Dolomites with backpacks full of things like bottles of wine and flip flops...not exactly survival gear. This is because you don't need much of anything when you hike in this area, due to the fact the place is riddled with boarding houses for hikers and climbers. (called a Rifugio, or hut) So we certainly didn't need a tent, which was a good thing because I no longer owned one that worked.You see, poles are needed for a tent to be functional, and I left mine behind at Upper Lyman Lake in Washington State weeks before.
(for the full story http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/08/spider-gap-buck-creek-pass-loop-part-2.html )
No, this stranger than fiction tale has nothing to do with the Dolomites, but instead how I got my tent poles back. I'll try to make it brief, so I can get back to the hiking story.

I thought I had found my poles when I called the Leavenworth ranger station and they said someone had turned some in. Imagine my disappointment when I drove there only to find they weren't mine. (though, I was a little comforted by the fact I'm not the only space-case hiker around) I was not hearing anything back from Marmot about replacing them, and overall I was losing hope. This is when my oldest daughter, Amber, called me at work to tell me she knew where my poles were...her science teacher had them. Huh?

Naturally filtered water right on the trail--so cool

Amber reminded me she had borrowed my tent several weeks prior for a kayaking science trip she was taking through the college. She explained she had written down her science teacher's phone number in case of emergency, but thought she had lost it. Get this...it turns out it had gotten stuck INSIDE one of the poles, and fell out when the people who found it at Lyman Lake took them out to have a look. How crazy is that? Of course, the science teacher could only wonder, "Tent poles? What tent poles?" when they gave him a call. Thankfully, for some reason he eventually thought of Amber. (maybe because, like her mother, she's always losing things) Yesterday I went to the college and picked them up, and now I don't have to buy a new tent! (side note: Marmot did eventually contact me and offered to replace my poles, which makes them a top notch company for sure)

Goats blocking the trail

Anyway...I concluded my last post with the exciting disclosure from our host at Rifugio Bergamo that there was indeed a route to another "hut" (the one I really wanted to stay at) that could easily be achieved in one day. What I failed to ask about was the difficulty of this path...but we were soon to find that out.

The book I had bought about the Dolomites categorized the hikes in three ways: Grade 1=easy. Grade 2=medium with reasonable amount of fitness required. Grade 3=Strenuous, sometimes with exposed stretches requiring aid by anchored cable. The #3's looked pretty exciting, but I decided against doing anything that challenging...but fate decided otherwise.

This isn't so bad...yet

When we got to the first cable, it was "Wow, this is cool! Take my picture!" By the time we were at the fifth or sixth one and up about 7,500 feet or so, it changed to "OMG...I feel like I'm going to pass out!" (which really would not have been a good thing) I didn't like the sensation at all, and found it hard to calm myself down. (mostly because I couldn't stop breathing as if I were in labor. Former climber Ken, of course, was completely unfazed)

"Wish I had an overhang"

See that big drop off to the right? We just came straight up that.
You can also see another Rifugio behind me in the distance.
(Alpe di Tires, I believe)

Thankfully, once we were past that section, it didn't take too long before we could see in the distance the beautiful Rifugio Bolzano.

Just look at it! Can you blame me for wanting so badly to stay there? Once we were checked in, had our backpacks safely in our room, and had our fill of beer and delicious soup at the restaurant, we set out to conquer the top of Mount Pez. 

The cute restaurant inside. A cook actually passed us on the trail,
hiking to work with his apron on. Can you imagine?

We didn't speak German, they spoke very little English, but we all understood beer!

8,400 feet (only an extra 400 feet from where we were) and what a view! Considering this is a European hike, I suppose I really should use meters--but whatever. I grew up in the states, and my school gave up trying to open my mind to the metric system after the sixth grade.

Mt. Pez. A place of sacrifice all the way into
the Middle Ages.

Thanks to my Dolomites book, we had directions on how to get to Compaccio the next day, where we took the gondola car down to Suisi and caught the bus back to Bolzono. (though I have to say, the signs and markers are quite exceptional, making finding your way around these mountains very doable) One thing you need to know once you get to Suisi; even though all the other buses pick you up in the parking lot, the Bolzono bus needs to be caught on the road just down the hill. (a kind bus driver on his break somehow communicated this to us in German when he noticed we had been sitting there for over an hour) 

I hope this information is helpful for anyone who is considering doing a 3 day hike in the Dolomites. As long as you don't have a car to get back to, I really think this route is your ticket. I might also suggest first seeing if you can pay to have your luggage/backpacks checked at a hotel in Bolzono; something I didn't think about until it was too late.

Even though I'm anxious to put my newly functioning tent back to use, I'm afraid you won't be hearing from me again until next season. I'm pretty much adventure filled at the moment, and we seemed to have skipped autumn and gone straight to winter here in the northwest. So for now I will have to say, arrivederci (or auf Wiedersehen) my friends!

Our new besties at Rifugio Bolzano...
wish I could remember their names.

The Dolomites Part One--Hike to Rifugio Bergamo

I'm not the most organized person on the planet. If you've read any of my former posts, this is already a given. (losing my car key and then my tent poles being a couple strikes against me...both of which were eventually found; more on that next time) Although I may be a scatterbrain most of the time, when it comes to planning a trip, I'm usually all over it. I enjoy researching everything about where we will be going and what we will be doing; this being especially true when it comes to backpacking. I always read a ton of trip reports and look through books and almost obsessively think about exactly how things need to go. (knowing full well they rarely do)

But I had to surrender all of that if we were going to hike in the Dolomites; because as much as I tried to formulate a plan, it was just not coming together. I was overwhelmed...the area is enormous, the possibilities are practically endless, and I had no idea when or even if we would make it to Bolzono. (the gateway town to the Dolomites)

Confused in Bolzano

Most people hike at least five days when visiting these mountains, but we only had three. So I bought a book called "Shorter Walks in the Dolomites" thinking I could connect a couple of the one day routes. Unfortunately though, the maps in the book are very specific, with no way to know for sure if you can connect them safely. This was enormously frustrating for me, until I decided I just had to let go. We'd pick a day hike and hope for the best; but at least I knew we could stay one night in a Rifugio, and then head back if we had to.

This is what fascinated me most about the Dolomites."Rifugio" is the name for the boarding houses that are scattered everywhere in the mountains for hikers and climbers to use. Little hotels in the middle of nowhere; it seemed too good to be true. I had to see one for myself. (The translation is "hut", which is how I described them to Ken. Boy, was he surprised when he saw one)

After getting to Bolzono way later in the day than I wanted (my night train idea having fallen apart) with no idea of where or what bus to catch, I was glad I had finally decided on one of the shortest hikes in the book. Walk #35 (out of 50) described a relatively easy 3-ish miles to Rifugio Bergamo. (I thought that's what it said, anyway) First you got off the bus at San Cipriano, then you were to cross the street to a hotel where the hike started...weird, right? Thankfully the receptionist at the hotel spoke a little English, so when I asked her if she knew about the trail she just escorted us through the bar to the other side of the hotel where there it was right out the back door. Talk about surreal.

Just getting started and WOW!

Before long the trial brought us to a Visitor Center with, would you believe it, yet another bar. I love Italy! Fate seemed to be telling me I needed to start this hike with a drink, so we ordered the house wine and sat down to contemplate our good fortune.

The Visitor Center...

...with helpful maps

Providence did seem to be on our side when we narrowly avoided heading out in the wrong direction. (maybe the wine wasn't such a great idea) Everything was going so splendidly, until we realized I had failed to notice that getting to the Rifugio was an "extension" of the easy hike; an extra hour and a half and straight up extension. Hummm....wishing we hadn't spent that extra time at the bar, because it was beginning to get dark.

I couldn't help starting to think about not being able to find this supposed boarding house; or maybe for some reason it was closed, or full, or shut down. Our fairly heavy backpacks were basically just our vacation suitcases we had to bring along...I doubted my cute sundresses with matching flats were going to help me get through a night at almost 7,000 feet. (though the wine we bought in Cortona might)

We are going to get there, right?

Just when I was starting to feel a panic coming on, we saw a flag perched on a pinnacle. Ken got to it first, and I pleaded for him to tell me that he could see the Rifugio. The way he excitedly got out the camera told me he could.

Rifugio Bergamo

What a sight to behold...we were saved! Stepping into the Rifugio was better than I ever imagined. It felt like coming home. A warm stove, a home cooked meal, and families with children playing on the floor. (Italian kids must be pretty hard core...but then again, they were not carrying 40-ish pound backpacks!) I seriously had to keep myself from crying and giving the host a big hug.

The stove complete with hangers to dry your clothes

Even better was finding out we could make it to the place I really wanted to see the next day. Rifugio Bolzano here we come.

To go to part 2: http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-dolomites-part-two-hike-to-rifugio.html

Hiking In Italy

Ken sporting my backpack...glad I didn't buy a pink one

I'm still pinching myself. Look at that title--can you believe it? I never expected to make it to Europe, even as much as I hoped to. (I say Europe, because we were also able to visit Germany to see our former exchange student; no hiking involved though)  It was one of those experiences that just came together somehow, and afterward you have to wonder, "Did that really happen?" Thankfully I have pictures to prove it, and we managed to get some hiking in, so I can write about it as well. 

What's the first thing you do in Rome?
 Climb on the statues and act stupid, of course!

Looking back on our adventures, it's hard to define what was a "hike", and what was not. What makes walking around and enjoying the scenery "hiking" and not just "taking a stroll"? Technically speaking, I should probably only write about hiking in the Dolomite's; which I can't wait to do, because it truly was the best hiking of my life. But I've decided to first give some info on three walks that I think are worth mentioning, even if I can't call them hikes. I hope they will be helpful to anyone who is researching inexpensive things to do in the area; I know I would have appreciated it when I was doing the same. (Although, you WILL spend a ton of money, no matter how much you try not to. Better to except that beforehand)

Grappa in your espresso...the Italian way to start the day

Non-hike #1) Night walk though Rome:
I'm not going to give specifics about this, because it's described in detail in Rick Steve's "Pocket Rome". I'm mentioning it mostly to let you know there truly is something magical about walking through Rome at night; and to advise you to save your money on everything else. This is just my opinion of course, but I really didn't see the point in spending a ton of cash to tour the sights. (made that mistake with the Sistine Chapel, and regretted it) Rome itself IS the sight, and it's all around you. Rome is a great example of the saying, "the best things in life are free", so take advantage of it.

Non-hike #2) Cortona to Conveto delle Celle
We stayed 7 days in Cortona, which is a very small, quaint, and incredibly old town in the Tuscany area. Again, the town itself is the main attraction, but it only takes a couple days to explore the entire thing. Without a car, you have to get a little creative as to how to spend your time. (although, just sitting in town and drinking wine is a great option)

Real monks wear Keens

We decided to spend one afternoon walking to the monastery where St. Francis spent some time; and we were not disappointed...once we got there.

I scribbled down the directions off of Google, thinking they looked so easy; but it was harder than I thought. (I take for granted being able to stop and ask directions...that didn't work out so well. Did you know they don't speak English in Italy? So weird. ;)) Hopefully these directions will work better for you:

At the top of Cortona

1) Walk up to the biggest church on the top (there are a ton of churches, but this is the main one--as long as you keep heading up, you are guaranteed to find it) and take that exit out of town. (exit meaning the big arch opening of the wall that surrounds the town...so cool)

2) When you get to the next town (town meaning store and restaurant) take a left at the fork heading down.
3) When the road turns left, keep going straight on the smaller unpaved road. You'll see a sign for a monastery; don't be confused that it's not the right name. It is the one your looking for. 
4) Keep walking for about a mile; you'll run right into it.

Non-hike #3) Isola Marroire
If your staying in Cortona, you'll have to take a bus, then a train to Lake Trasimeno, then a ferry to get to this island. This takes a bit of planning...go to the information/tourist office in town and they will help you. This was a day I felt like looking cute; but I'm glad we took my hiking shoes to change into because this is quite a walk. (maybe even a real hike?)

Nobody I asked seemed to think this island was worth going to, but I'm so glad we went anyway. It only takes a couple hours to walk around the whole island and see several very interesting historic sites; we both agreed it was pretty amazing. Not to mention the ferry ride being beautiful and relaxing; I would highly recommend it as a day's excursion. 

A run down castle on the island

As remarkable and stunning as our trip was thus far, the best is yet to come. The Shangri-La of the hiking world is our next stop. Prepare to be amazed. 
To go to Dolomite Hike: http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-dolomites-part-one-hike-to-rifugio.html

The unbelievable view from our room in Cortona
To stay there yourself go to
http://www.togethertuscany.com/

Buck Creek Pass (Part 3)

(continued from http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2013/08/spider-gap-buck-creek-pass-loop-part-2.html )

It seems that if you've taken a three mile detour to see an amazing view of a lake, you should at least suck it up and go the one mile more to actually see it. Though, considering the circumstances, can you blame me for not giving a crap? I figured I had about five to six more hours of hiking to get to Middle Ridge (the next stop to "tent"--with no tent, of course) and I had no time to waste. So, with a "screw you" to Image Lake, I turned right around and headed back to the main trail.

This loop takes you for a few miles on the PCT...pretty cool

A little taste of the PCT

I told just about every person I ran into (including the three guys from the previous day) about leaving my tent poles at Upper Lyman Lake. I didn't care if I looked stupid, (I was stupid, after all) I was just hoping I could somehow get my poles back if enough people knew about it. I had to talk fast though, because if you stopped for more than 10 seconds, the black flies were on you like white on rice.

I hiked, and hiked, and hiked, and hiked. There was one little camp site I didn't know about, in the woods just before you start the real push up. Very cute--right next to a stream. I took off my pack and stocked up on water, thinking it may be my last chance. (It wasn't...not by a long shot. Middle Ridge is a dry camp, so you need to get your water sometime before you get there; though I could have waited at least an hour) I really thought about staying there, but I had heard there was a spot on Middle Ridge that had "the best views ever". I just had to go for it.

Happy little trees...looks like Bob Ross painted it himself

By the time I got to the top, I again couldn't have given a crap about the views. I started in on trying to attempt to make some sort of use out of my pole-less tent.

Glacier Peak in morning glory

All I had were the tie down ropes that came with the tent (to secure your tent in high winds) and I thought I was quite clever to attach them to trees; converting the rain fly into a kind of tarp. Although, MacGyver I am not...all I was doing was making a sort of bowl to catch rain water--and there was still some threatening clouds and thunder in the sky.

At this time two men came over the ridge and asked if I minded sharing my site, because they couldn't take another step. Boy, did I get it; and of course there was plenty of room. They took one look at my monstrosity of a tarp covering and asked if I could use some help. Hell yes! Saved again by those who know what they are doing--hallelujah!

Thank you Peter and Earl! I'm so mad this picture is so blurry.
It looked good to me when I took it...
which says a lot about my brain function at the time

I am always so humbled by other hikers. They had all kinds of extra rope, extra water (I was almost out) extra poncho in case my tent failed (though now it was new and improved and even upright!)...those guys had everything. I loved Peter's ancient looking cooking pots. They have seen their fair share of adventures, I am sure. They were just so nice to me, and I am forever grateful for their kindness.

I woke up early, and was excited to hike up a short side path that went even higher to see the sunrise. It's these moments that make it all worth it. No words to describe...and the pictures are garbage compared to the real thing. You just have to go there yourself.

I left at 7:30 in the morning and didn't stop. Hiking, hiking, hiking, hiking. The views over Buck Creek Pass...the best ever, really. But as soon as I was headed down, I was over it. And let me tell you, the slog out is LONG, boring, and fu@#ing endless. I was SOOOO over it. I finally stopped at a camp I came to in the woods--the black flies were making me crazy, but I had to stop. A pair of hikers past me by on their way out. They said I had 4 miles to go. (they had hiked in that way the day before) Deep breath...just four more miles. 

A mirror is not one of the 10 essentials...obviously

Thinking I could calculate my mileage by how many songs I had listened to (according to what I averaged whenever I worked out on a treadmill...when I'm not wearing a pack or completely dead tired...but I have never claimed to have the best reasoning skills) I figured I was on my last song...MY LAST SONG! I just cannot convey the level of my exhaustion; I have never been so utterly shot. I was so relieved that my car was going to come into view at any second...probably before the end of the song, actually. This is when I ran into the first hiker coming towards me; I couldn't resist asking..."how much longer until the parking lot?" (was he going to say one minute, or five? Oh please God, not ten!)

"Oh...I'd say about an hour."

I think I asked if he was kidding three times. He finally said, "well, maybe it's not an hour, but I've been hiking quite a while"...with a "what the hell is your problem?" tone in his voice.

Buck Mountain

As soon as he was gone, I threw my pack down, laid on top of it, and sobbed for 5 minutes straight. I'm not even kidding--SOBBED; like a baby...like someone had just died. It was so ridiculous. A hiker on the Appalachian Trail averages about 20 miles a day. My daily average was about 12. I think I may be screwed. 

I did eventually make it to my car, of course. (in one hour and 15 minutes...the final 15 minutes seemingly lasting 4 hours) It was there in the lot, as promised; and my extra key was still in my pack where I had hid it. (Not that I was obsessively worrying or anything! ;)) But take a look at my ride:

click on the pics if you can't read the messages

Have you ever seen anything so sweet? I'd love to do 500 miles on the Appalachian Trail when I turn 50...but if I never do, it's okay. I have family and friends who really love me, and that's what truly matters. I hope I never forget it.

You gotta stop at Zeke's...even if it makes you sorry later.