Plan B

Ferries suck. I can't imagine having to rely on them on a daily basis. I guess that means I will never live on an island. (Hawaii excluded, of course ;)) I already had one hike almost ruined because of how unpredictable ferry travel can be, (Mount Constitution) and I was pretty proud of how we "improvised" and worked around the four hour ferry wait. (NOT in the plans) But when your plan is to take a 7:30pm ferry to Port Townsend to spend the night so you can get up at 6:00am to drive 3 hours to the coast on a rare day the tides are favorable and do a 9 mile hike before it gets dark...and the ferry shuts down...well, that pretty much means you don't have a plan anymore.

I won't lie, I was really bummed. I had been planning this trip for weeks, and my daughter and her best friend had adjusted their schedules to be able to come with me. It didn't matter that the weather was going to be horrible--that just added to the sense of adventure! I bought a new raincoat, and special traction devices for our feet; it was going to be a do or die operation. So when we pulled up to the little ticket booth with my prepaid reservation in hand, my mind was not prepared to comprehend the teller's not so friendly greeting of "We're done". 

"But, I have a reservation...you were going to email me if there was a change in the schedule." (Can you hear the desperation in my voice? Yes, I was pathetic.) "The winds are too high. We are done for the night." (Can you hear the "If I have to explain this to one more person, I'm going to bang my head against this window" annoyance in her voice?) When your plans have been crushed, I guess you hope to be treated more gently--but who can blame her. It was a sucky night for everybody. 

On the day we would have been coming home and heading back through Anacortes, I had planned on meeting up with someone selling a computer on Craigslist who lived in the area. Now that I had to make a special trip to Anacortes to do this, I decided I would do a different (though far less epic) hike. The weather was still quite sour, but at least I would have a chance to try out my new raincoat.

Picture complete darkness to you left

On my first hike of this year, I explained how Anacortes gets 6 inches less rainfall per year, and this day was no exception. On the drive over I took this picture out my window, although it doesn't really capture how drastically different the skies over each area were. I guess my raincoat test would have to wait.

I was glad to have my raincoat with me though, because the daypack full of extra clothes and water and luminary devises I had so carefully packed was left sitting by my front door. (Seriously, Kelly?--smack head) It's a good thing I had my Santa hat on, because it was also all I had.

I knew I didn't have to worry too much about being so ill prepared--this hike is never more than a quarter mile away from hwy 20. (Not exactly your wilderness adventure.) Plus it had such helpful and informative signage.

Can I just say, "No shit?"

If your considering doing the "Deception Pass Headlands - Rosario Head - Lighthouse Point" hike, let me try to explain it clearly, because the descriptions I found were a bit confusing. These are two separate hikes that go in opposite directions. Neither hike is very long; the WTA page says 5 miles, but I'm assuming that includes doing one and then hiking back to do the other. I picked Lighthouse Point (no lighthouse, btw) because I was running out of daylight and didn't have time for both. (Due to the fact that after I bought the computer I left without the powercord and had to go back. Do you see a pattern here?)

I was being sarcastic about the signs; (in case you didn't catch that ;)) they are pretty confusing and I ended up on a lot of rabbit paths. (I wonder if the 5 miles includes them as well?) I plan on going back in the summer to do Rosario Head and some other hikes in the area. I took several pictures of the giant map in the parking lot so hopefully next time I'll know what I'm doing. (Maybe I'll even remember my backpack?)

I haven't given up hope on my original plan; (it's the Ozette Triangle, if your wondering) in fact there is a couple weekends next month that look promising. Hopefully the ferry gods will be smiling. :)

 

Lake Ann (Mount Baker Hwy)

It hurts to say it...but this is most likely my last backpacking trip of the year. Maybe even my last hike until spring. The weather has turned, no question, and I just don't do snow. I might need to reconsider though, and look into snowshoes; because I'm really going to miss being out there. Feeling "one with nature"...it's so cliche', but it really does start to get in your blood. A friend described it as "feeding the soul, like nothing else can", and I really get it. I think on one level or another, everybody does.

This friend (ok, it's Rick--Melissa's husband) was saying this when I was picking up my loaner gear and asking him about Sahale Arm. (A hike he's already done, and the one I was planning on doing as the last hurrah of the year.) It's heralded as such a quintessential hike; I couldn't help but be drawn to it. But there are so many reasons why it wasn't practical; the biggest one being Debbie was counting on me to bring her on a hike she would enjoy...and 3600 feet in elevation gain on anyone's 2nd time backpacking is most likely not going to be a good time.

Lake Ann is just 8 miles round trip and only 1900 feet elevation gain. The part of me that wants to be all hard core just doesn't feel like this is worthy of an overnight trip--I think that's why I had such a hard time switching. I'm so thankful for the part of me that argues, "And what's the point if you have a crappy time?" Feeding the soul is not about clocking in miles--that would be called feeding the ego. I have a lot of thoughts about the ego, and this is not the place for it...but I do believe that when my life becomes about impressing others, I can kiss joy goodbye.

So it was off to Lake Ann, with a quick stop at REI to pick up my first real piece of my very own equipment--a headlamp. (Oh wait, I did just buy new boots...but that doesn't count because I never borrowed shoes) Thank God Debbie was with me, because of course I was going for the cheapest one they had. She pointed out 100 lumens vs 20 lumens was probably worth another $18 bucks. I think I even have a better one now than Rick has!  Ha, ha--I win! (Hey, I never said I didn't have an ego ;))

I also tried to buy my own bear bin, but they were out. We tried to stop at the ranger station to get one--they were closed. Ugh, this meant we were supposed to hang the food. I need some instruction on how to do this, because it's a lot harder than it sounds. I consoled myself (and Debbie) by saying I didn't think there were many bears in that area. Did I know what I was talking about? Of course not.

Barely out of the car and WOW

Just the drive to the trail head is a feast for the soul; if you've ever driven to Artist's Point you know what I'm talking about. It was a perfect day, and no picture can capture the vibrancy of the fall colors. (Even so, we kept trying!)


This hike starts by going down, until you end up in the most delightful valley. We kept saying how we felt we were in some rich person's backyard; the trail maintenance is exceptional, to the point of looking quite landscaped at times.

Debbie is saying, "Seems like this should lead
 to someone's barbecue, huh?"

This is where we ran across the hunters--coming off the mountain with bear heads and skins in their packs. (Debbie just had to ask.) I believe they said they shot three, and would come back later to retrieve the meat. (I'm sure they could have taught us a thing or two on how to hang food in a tree!) So much for my theory on not many bears in that area...though now there were three less. One of the guys even tried to point out a bear roaming around on a distant hill, but I think hunters can see things us normal people can't. I just hoped that bear was headed in the other direction--and I was really wishing we had a bear bin.

Double rainbow--what does it mean?
(I know it's not a rainbow--it's a youtube reference. Look it up)

From the valley it was up and up until we reached a small snow field--and then the lake! This is when I knew I needed to throw all pretenses of being a bad ass hiker aside, because after those four piddly miles I was done. Take care of Debbie? Ha--I'm sure she would have been dragging my butt up Sahale Arm had I taken her there. 

But talk about worth the effort--words cannot describe. Shuksan roaring above us, (the glacier makes sounds like thunder) and Lake Ann like a mirror beneath us. It was almost unbelievably beautiful, really.

Shuksan means "roaring mountain", or "high peak", depending on who you ask

Rockin' my lumens!

We had the whole place to ourselves--which is really rare, I hear.We ran around like a couple of giggly schoolgirls who have somehow got away with not having a chaperon. Bears could not have been further from my mind, but we did hide our food the proper distance away. Hide...not hang. Debbie, who is often the expert on everything, (sorry Deb, but you know it's true...I can tease her because she also never takes herself too seriously, which is one of the reasons why I love her ;)) tried to give me a little lesson on how to throw the bag properly. It's probably a good thing it was a major fail, because we most likely would have never gotten it out of the tree otherwise.

For those who want to know how to throw a food bag, take note

In the morning we had a guest who entertained us for about an hour. It's amazing what you find amusing when you don't have internet access or cable. (Though, I have to confess I found myself watching "Too Cute" once, which is a TV show that is literally just kittens running around. My husband sat and watched it too for awhile...which makes you wonder if there was some weird mind control thing going on, right?...Can you say 'alien broadcast'? ;))

We named him "Chip". Original, don't you think?

I am not feeding the animals...nuts just happened to fall on my shoe

Both Debbie and I thought we would really struggle with the last couple miles, because this time they would be going straight up; but we didn't at all. Maybe it was because we stopped so often to take pictures. Or, maybe it was because our souls were so well fed. I think I like that a lot better. :)



Even Chip knew not to eat it

P.S. Only one hiking lesson this time:
#25--Just say "no" to dehydrated scrambled eggs. For real.

Last Day--Hannegan Peak

Three nights...check. Maybe I cheated a little by staying in the same place for two nights, but I'm ok with that. I'm sort of making up the rules as I go anyway; we will see if I actually get in both a four and five night hike next year. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. So anyway, here I am on the fourth day, and it was time to pack up and head out. I was feeling more energetic than I expected, and so I kept telling myself I needed to do Hannegan Peak on my way out. The downhill switchbacks that I loved so much two days ago were heavy on my mind though...because of course this time they would be uphill.

Surprisingly I was done with them before I knew it, and as I came up to the sign for Hannegan Peak I ran into my first set of hikers...both of them going pee. "I didn't see anything" was all I said as hurried by. The peak is just a mile up and another down--no need to bring the pack, so I hid it behind a tree. First I took all the food out, and stashed it separately...it's hard to imagine anything worse than having to replace a backpack I don't even own because a squirrel chewed through it to get to the trail mix. I would take my chances on someone finding it and stealing it...what are the odds of that happening? (The squirrel thing happened to my husband once, so I think that's a more common occurrence. I have never even heard of a hiker stealing another hiker's pack...that is just unthinkable.) I did make sure to take the key out, though. Worst case scenario ever--calling Ken to tell him the last remaining key to the car is gone. As you can see in the picture, when Ken brought me the key on my first day, he made sure it was on the biggest ass carabiner he could find. Gotta love him. 

There was some fog, but I really thought it would get better the higher I got. I love mountains peaking out from behind clouds, (as I mentioned before) so I was really enjoying the views on the way up. The peak was going to be amazing...

Not so much. Total white out. I didn't even bother going to the tip top, because there was nothing to see.

I was happy that I did get to see the one tent site I had heard about--the one with views to die for. Although, I knew what would really make me die...hauling my pack up here the day I felt like I was going to pass out, only to find it already taken. Boundary Camp might not have been all that much to look at, but I was sold on the bear locker and toilet; and they served me well.

The hike down and out was beautiful; not just in spite of the fog, but because of it. All the fall colors just popped out...and my head didn't feel like it was going to explode from the heat.

Still a few beautiful wildflowers blooming

I stopped at a very cute cafe on the way home and treated myself to a Reuben sandwich and beer. (It was heavenly!) Thankfully they had seating outside, because I smelled like my son's socks--which is really saying something.

Looking (and smelling) a lot like death

I'm so thankful for this experience, and the lessons I learned...which are:

22) Don't take your car key off your key chain to save pack weight--it is not worth the .02 pounds, trust me.

23) When your lighting the jetboil, make sure it's not turned on full blast. (I left that story out...embarrassing, but a VERY important thing to remember.)

24) Bring enough water!!! Dehydration sucks.

Copper Ridge

After such a fitful night's rest, I was so happy to finally see a little light in the sky--morning had arrived at last! I wasn't even upset that it was starting to rain a little, as long as I could get out of that tent, all was good. (Plus Rick made me bring his good rain coat just in case, so I was set.)

I was on the trail by 8:00 and ready to make it to the lookout come hell or high water. My original plan was to head toward Whatcom pass and try to make it to the river cable car crossing before heading back, because that sounded super cool. When I told the ranger this (at Glacier) she tactfully let me know I was not going to make it--unless I was a trail runner or something. (Most definitely not.) So Copper Ridge it was--and I was glad I had an end goal, because that always helps me keep going.

The trail started out in the woods, and because of the rain it was dark and sort of spooky. Again, bears were on my mind-- I just didn't even want to see one because I knew I would be terrified, even though I doubt it would even give me much notice. I picked up a couple rocks and banged them together while walking, and it really helped me keep a pace and feel safe.

I would get glimpses of mountains every once in a while. I would always stop and take a picture, not knowing if I'd see anymore; what with the clouds and all. I enjoyed the mystical quality the clouds gave them...maybe even more than a blue sky backdrop.

The day just kept getting better and better, and the views grander and grander. I finally let my rocks go--it was all too amazing to think about bears.

Egg Lake. There are campsites here--how beautiful!

I ran into my first hikers when I was almost to the lookout. They were ending a 4 night loop. "Are you camping at Boundary?"...I know I sounded overly excited, but I really didn't want to spend another night by myself. Nope, they were headed to Hannegan. One of the guys said, "You should switch, there's a ranger at the lookout that can do that for you. We are so sick of talking to each other, it would be great to hang out with someone else. Party at Hannegan!" Oh my--I think I would have done just about anything to party with other humans...especially this group, because they were so friendly. But pack all my stuff up and head up and over the pass after a full day of hiking? Ugh, I just didn't think I had it in me.

I don't think the ranger thought I had it in me either, because when I asked, she offered to call to see if anyone else was going to be at Boundary. She told me two groups were coming in, so I knew I wouldn't be alone. I was still tempted a little to switch--I doubted anyone at Boundary was going to want to "party"; (and they didn't) but my sensible side won out. Trying to put up a tent in the dark is not my thing--I learned that the hard way.  

After talking with the ranger and asking a bunch of questions she's probably answered a thousand times, I finally got up the courage to ask if I could take my picture with her. Rangers are like the rockstars of the outdoors--that's how I see it anyway. She invited me to "tour" the lookout, and even offered me some freshly baked dumplings. I told her and the volunteer working with her about my blog and they said they'd try to look it up. So, if you ever find this--hello Lucy and Laura!!! You gals are awesome!

The trip back was uneventful, except that I ran out of water with 2 whole hours to go. Not good--I will not make that mistake again. Another lesson I learned is this: dehydration + nasty dehydrated mac and cheese dinner = extremely unhappy digestive system. Even though "backwoods" toilets scare the hell out of me, in this case I was happy that Boundary Camp provided one. TMI...sorry...I'll stop now. One more post for my final day and I'll be done. http://kellbell-whywouldanyonereadthis.blogspot.com/2012/10/last-day-hannegan-peak.html

A thin place in the trail that felt like a skinny bridge, with mountains on both sides. Pretty thrilling.