Angel Time and an Encounter with Norseman

I had been on the trail 51 hours without seeing another face. I've always been pretty okay with solo hiking, but this kind of isolation I could do without. Though, paradoxically, as much as I wanted to connect with whomever it was I passed sleeping in their tent, if I'm honest, I was also relieved to have avoided them. It's the conflict of needing companionship, but fearing rejection even more...pretty much the human struggle in a nutshell, wouldn't you say?

Trying to get creative with the increasingly boring food...
bad idea

I was only 4 miles from where I planned to camp for the night (all downhill--thank God!!) when I spotted a human! "Play it cool and don't babble on like an idiot", I scolded myself before we past each other, but thankfully he was down to chat for a couple minutes. He told me he was completing this section of the PCT after waving the white flag because of rain on his last attempt. I told him he was the first person I had seen in days, and he informed me there were two women down at Trout Creek. Again, I was playing it cool, so I didn't break out in dance. After he left, I realized he didn't actually say they were camped there, so I tried to prepare myself for disappointment in case they were gone when I arrived. But man, was I hoping with every fiber of my being I wouldn't have to spend another night alone.

Anita and Nikki...my angels. They made me feel so welcome, even though I straight up asked if I could camp on their site without even looking if there was another option. Hell, I would have asked if I could sleep between them if I thought I could have gotten away with it! I was so ready to have people around me, and they didn't hesitate to tell me to make myself at home. 

We chatted about our experiences so far. They were "hiking their own hike", and had settled in this spot after finally saying screw it to their 100 miles in 7 days goal. We all agreed that Section H was a little more than we bargained for. When I told them my previous night's story and explained how I had past a tent, they both looked at each other and exclaimed, "It must have been Chicago!" 

Screw it, we are staying put for awhile!
Ha ha, I loved these gals!

I wasn't clear on when they met "Chicago" (her home town; they couldn't remember her name) but they obviously had an in-depth conversation with her, because they talked about her like a couple of mother hens approving over their chick. "She had beat her demons" they affirmed, "she was leaving here feeling like she was enough, and that she was going to be okay." Now I was extra sad we missed each other the night before, but I was thankful Chicago got her angel time too. Maybe she'll come across this blog somehow and realize she has a trail name; I think Chicago is a good one! I'm so jealous! Maybe someday.

After an early goodbye to my angels, it was back to total solitude. Even though I was close to Panther Creek Campground, and had to do a little road walking, still I saw no one. It wasn't until well past noon, while I was sprawled out all over the trail taking one of my newly appreciated long breaks, when I saw him. 

Even though he would have practically had to step over me, he still startled when I said hello. "I was so in my head, I didn't even see you! I haven't seen anyone in days!" he announced animatedly as he plopped himself down right next to me. 

"You're a south bounder" I stated. No need to ask; he was so geared out it was obvious. Plus he looked like hell. I was astonished he had made it through all the snow; I honestly didn't even think it was possible, and told him as much.

"I'm here to tell you it's possible...but it's changed me." It gave me chills when he said it. I couldn't believe I was lucky enough to get a little of his story; thru hikers rarely stop midday just to talk. He told me he was dropped off at Hart's Pass on June 12th, and tried to go north for the 31 miles to Canada, (so he could "start" his south bound journey) but turned around just 11 miles shy because after 6 self arrests, he had to "call it" and surrender to the fact he would have to return later to finish that part. (A self arrest, for anyone who doesn't know, is when you stop yourself from sliding off the mountain with your ice ax.) He went on to say he verified with a ranger that a grizzly mama bear was just 20 feet away from his tent one night. She had taken his shirt that he had hanging out, and then had gone on her way. In the morning he saw her tracks (which I'm assuming he took pics of for the verification) and also cub tracks just a little further above. "She was putting herself between me and her cub" he explained. "Good thing you didn't get out to pee!" I joked. He looked at me like he didn't think it was funny. "Nothing would have gotten me out of that tent." I'm sure truer words were never spoken. 

I told him my Sasquatch story, because y'know, I was trying to hang with the big dogs; but I don't think he was impressed. He warned me about the upcoming 11 miles with no water, (I already knew I didn't have enough, but damn if I don't hate hauling water uphill!) then I asked for a picture with him like a crazed fan. We went our separate ways, and once again I was back to being alone. If I had known my scariest night yet was still ahead, I might have turned around and gone with him. Part 5 will wrap this all up, I promise.

Me and Norseman...
okay, I look like hell too, ha ha!
Someday I hope to hear the entire story of his making it to Mexico.