50 Days, 500 Miles, and 5 States When I Turn 50: The Thru Hikers Are Coming!

I've broken the 300 mile mark on the PNT! This trip's 41.6 miles has brought my total up to 300.5. Part of me is embarrassed to be bragging about crossing such a puny landmark considering the thru hikers are doing all 1200 miles in one shot. But they are a different category of human. Hiking machines.

I didn't time this trip with any thought of the thru hikers, but I was lucky enough to be there when about a dozen of them were passing through. (A few each day, not all together.) Chatting a little with the first set I came across, the first thing they wanted to know was if the cafe at Baker was open. I'm certain burgers had been on their minds for days, and I thought I saw some drool when they were assured it was indeed open. But they also told me this was the hardest trail they've ever done. That is saying something, considering most of the hikers who do this trail have done ALL the others. The one with the beard said he's done TWENTY THOUSAND miles of trails! I'm pretty sure that's all of them. ;)

And they always look so freakin' happy! What is wrong with them! ;)
But how cute is Ketzel? Cute...but a beast!

There was one thru hiker I was really hoping to see though. I ran across https://twigadventures.com/ a few weeks ago and immediately became obsessed. I love a good story, and she sucked me right in. How she hikes the miles she does and then has time to write it all up, I will never understand; but every day I'd wait for her updates with baited breath.She is doing a flip-flop thru hike (starting in the middle, then coming back and going the opposite direction...a great strategy this year because of the huge snow pack) and she hadn't posted for awhile, so I had no idea where she was. I kept in the back of my mind it was a possibility I'd meet her, but what are the odds?

Wolverine, Twig and Karaoke. Hiking Rock Stars!!

"The trail provides"...another cliche', but damn if it isn't true! I was a little worried she'd think I was some weird stalker, tracking her down in the middle of nowhere like a crazed fan. But I think she was flattered - I hope so anyway. I mean, who doesn't like a little worship? ;) She even took her own picture with me...maybe I'll even make her blog!

"Funk" was not happy to hear Twig and her crew
were a whole day ahead, haha. I think they do get
a little competitive with each other.

Anyway, all the thru hikers warned me the trail was pretty bad, because they were all going the opposite direction and had passed through what I was heading toward. I had an idea that "pretty bad" meant "FUCKING bad" in regular hiker language, and I was right. There were a couple times I really wondered if I was going to even make it out of there! I'm posting my videos to my YouTube channel if you are curious (here...it's really just a way to store my videos and not a "thing") but the details will be in the trail log below. Though I can tell you this, for my last 200 miles of PNT I will make sure they are trails I can actually follow! Happy "maintained" trails!

Two more triple crowners telling me
this is their hardest hike yet at Ross Lake Resort.

Trail Log:

Day 4: After splitting with my gals at the Chilliwack intersection (1.8 miles from where we were camped - see previous post) it was another 5.4 miles to Whatcom Camp so 7.2 miles total - Miles that thru hikers would have finished before lunch...but I think I've made my point. Almost immediately I came to my first wash out. No trail, at all. There is no way I could have found my way without the Guthooks App. (I know it's FarOut now, but I can't bring myself to call it that. It will forever be Guthooks to me.) I was still in pretty good spirits until the climb. Totally exposed and pretty steep and very rocky and a little sketch and then BLACK FLY ATTACK. Too slow and sweaty, I was easy prey. I started freaking out...I've just never had them all over me like that. I really could have hurt myself - I almost did! Finally I figured out a way to stop and collect myself. I dug my tent out in a panic and put it over myself. Then I needed shade, so I grabbed my umbrella. Then it occurred to me I could put the umbrella INSIDE the tent with me, which created a quick sort of circus tent bug screen. This became my life saver for the rest of the trip, as the black flies were a pretty consistent issue.

Trail?

Before I figured out it was better having
the umbrella inside with me

Whatcom Camp was very beautiful though

Day 5: Seven miles of pure hell to the bridge over Little Beaver Creek, then another 1.2 to Stillwell Camp and another .5 off trail to the campsites so 8.7 total. I ran into Twig and her crew before I even got over the pass, and they warned me to "go around" the upcoming washout. I think going my direction was harder, or they figured out a better way to do it, because getting up the other side of that washout was INSANE. I was climbing with my knees, which I know is bad form, but I was desperate. It was honestly scary...everything felt like it was going to give at any second. Then total overgrown mess and parts of the trail totally devoured by the river, then another washout I needed Guthooks for, then the worst blow down mess I've ever encountered. I was totally lost and being swallowed by bogs and Devil's Club for at least 20 minutes trying to go around that blow down disaster. Guthooks was all kittywampus and not very helpful in this spot...sometimes it's like that, and you really can't always rely on it. It was my hardest hiking day ever. (Well...maybe not. I wasn't crying. But I was close!) Then the trail disappeared again on the half mile to the camp. UGH! Next morning I looked down at my legs and thought, "this trail wants to kill me!"

Stunning Whatcom Pass

Just go around it is all, haha

Yes, this is the trail

Rivers like to eat trails

Yummy

Pure hell

Trail?!! Where are you?!!

Yikes!

Day 6: The half mile back to the trail, then another 7.2 to Luna Camp, so 7.7 total. After struggling to find the trail back out of the camping area (took me an hour! You'd think I'd remember from the night before, but it was really a mess) the rest of the day was a breeze. THANK GOD FOR TRAIL CREWS!! The smell of sawdust was like heaven - I could tell it was a lot of work to clear that section. I'll be donating more money to the PNTA for sure.

I did love all the waterfalls

Never saw the pooper, thank God

So many big trees to love. Some were MASSIVE!

Day 7: A gloriously easy mostly downhill and totally clear 9.4 miles to Ross Lake. The only issue was mosquitoes, but I could at last go fast enough to keep them off me for the most part. Pumpkin Mountain camp was amazing and jumping in the lake sublime. I will confess here that though I got and paid $26 for my permit, I did not stay in one spot I was actually supposed to stay at. Sorry, but the itinerary I was given was not "slowest hiker" compatible, especially with that mess of a trail. The only camp where I saw even one soul was Pumpkin Mountain, but there were two other spots open, so I don't feel bad. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

Ross Lake at last!

Best swim EVER

Day 8: Six miles to the Ross Lake Resort where I paid the $3 for the ride across to the Happy Panther TH which is another six miles so my biggest day at 12 miles. The boat ride only saves you about a mile, but I've done the dam walk several times and have already counted it toward by goal, so the boat ride was a no brainer. Plus I had to go down to the resort anyway so I could call my son to tell him what time to pick me up at the East Bank TH. Everything went so smoothly, and even though the Happy Panther only got three stars on the WTA website, it was one of my favorite parts - probably because it was so easy, haha. But I thought it surprisingly beautiful as well. Anyway, there you have it! I hope to get a few more PNT miles in before the season is over. Stay tuned!